It’s been an action-packed first 3 months for us, here at Weygandt Wines. We’ve poured beautiful Burgundies, astonishing Austrians, sensational Sancerres, and breathtaking Barolos to name a few. Alliteration aside, on Saturday, January 30, from 12 to 4 pm, we’ll pour some of the most misunderstood wines of the old world: Northern Rhones. The spotlight is on Georges Vernay, more specifically, his daughter Christine who, “has been running this estate for a number of years, and has not only built on the highly successful white wines of her father, but has also dramatically increased the quality of the reds.” – Robert Parker, The Wine Advocate

Northern Rhone Viognier pairs very well with rich cheeses, fish with sauces such as a beurre blanc, guinea fowl and other lighter poultry. The Syrahs are a natural match with duck, game birds, venison and richer meats.

All of the wines from Georges Vernay will be on sale for 25-50% off the regular retail price. For those of you who haven’t tasted Viognier and/or Syrah from the steep-sloped, shale and granite soils of this region, this is an excellent opportunity to try these elegant and complex wines. The Lineup:

Georges Vernay Viognier Vin de Pays des Collines Rhodaniennes Le Pied de Samson 2007, Sale $19.99/btl, Regularly $32.99/btl – Rhone, France – 100% Viognier – 12.8% abv – Fresh, tangy mix of peach, anise and mineral notes, that all stay bright and pure on the finish. Drink now. 1,080 cases made. – WS 88 points

Georges Vernay Condrieu Les Terrasses de L’Empire 2007, Sale $34.99/btl, Regularly $52.99/btl – Rhone, France – 100% Viognier – 14% abv – Really bright and superracy, with a tightly coiled core of orange blossom, honeysuckle, green fig, yellow apple and chamomile notes waiting to gush forth. Taut acidity holds this back for now, so cellar to let it round into form. Best from 2009 through 2012. 1,665 cases made. – WS 92 points

Georges Vernay Cote Rotie Blonde du Seigneur 2005, Sale $49.99/btl, Regularly $74.99/btl – Rhone, France – 100% Syrah – 12.5% abv – Bright and pure, with racy acidity carrying a strong floral note, along with hints of licorice, iron and cassis. Graphite edge really stretches out the finish. Best from 2009 through 2016. 415 cases made. – WS 92 points

The outstanding 2005 Cote Rotie Blonde de Seigneur exhibits the beautifully sexy, seductive notes from the Cote Blonde, with raspberry, kirsch, smoke, and flowers, followed by an elegantly wrought wine with supple tannins, beautiful black and red fruits, and a savory mouthfeel. It is rich, but not over the top. – WA 92 points

Georges Vernay Cote Rotie Blonde du Seigneur 2006, Sale $39.99/btl, Regularly $62.99/btl – Rhone, France – 100% Syrah – 12.5% abv – A juicy, ripe style, with lots of briar, red and black currant, sweet tapenade and aged tobacco notes, backed by a vibrant minerality. Long, alluring finish. Drink now through 2018. 665 cases made. – WS 91 points

Georges Vernay Cote Rotie Maison Rouge 2004, Sale $69.99/btl, Regularly $109.99 – Rhone, France – 100% Syrah – 12.5% abv – Shows a mix of sweet tea, black olive, currant, sanguine and mineral notes, with a long, supple finish. The fresh acidity lets the herb and mineral notes linger nicely. Drink now through 2015. 415 cases made. – WS 91 points

Georges Vernay Cote Rotie Maison Rouge 2005, Sale $79.99/btl, Regularly $119.99/btl – Rhone, France – 100% Syrah – 12.5% abv – Gorgeous aromas of Turkish coffee, warm fig bread and dark cocoa lead the way for a lushly layered palate of fig, boysenberry and black currant paste notes. Very alluring, with ample structure buried on the finish. Don’t overlook the reds at this Condrieu-based domaine; they’ve really improved in the last few vintages. Best from 2010 through 2025. 415 cases made. – WS 94 points

The 2005 Cote Rotie Maison Rouge is dark ruby in color but totally dominated by new oak. The wine has some serious weight to it and excellent freshness, but the wood is overwhelming at present, which surprised me. Judgment reserved. – WA 88 points

We just had an informal tasting with a local sommelier who was interested in going through our Austrian portfolio. A number of Gruner Veltliners, a Riesling, a couple of Sauvignon Blancs, a St. Laurent and a few Blaufrankisch are open and lonely at the shop right now. Net result for you? Taste whatever we have left. FX Pichler, Uwe Scheifer, Tement, Birgit Eichinger and Kurt Angerer will all be represented, so stop by the shop to taste some unique and truly excellent wines.

Thanks to Firefly Farms and everyone who made it into the shop over the weekend to taste the sublime combination of their creamy, elegant goat’s milk cheeses with our Loire Valley Sauvignon Blancs. This coming week is a bit light on the activities front, but as always, we’ll pour at least six different bottles at our bar. The Lineup:

L’Abbaye du Petit Quincy Bourgogne Tonnerre 2006, $19.99/btl – Burgundy, France – 100% Chardonnay – 12.5% abv

Domaine La Bastide Blanche Bandol Blanc 2008, $26.99/btl – Provence, France – 45% Clairette, 35% Ugni Blanc, 15% Bourboulenc, 5% Sauvignon Blanc – 13% abv – A fruity style, with focused flavors of peach, Golden Delicious apple and pear. Medium-bodied, with a zesty, spice-filled finish that features touches of cream. Drink now. 25 cases imported. – WS 88 points

Domaine de Fontenille Cotes du Luberon 2007, $14.99/btl – Rhone, France – 70% Grenache, 30% Syrah – 14% abv – Grippy for a Lubéron, with dark currant, roasted chestnut, maduro tobacco and roasted olive notes that pump through the muscular, slightly rugged finish. Drink now through 2010. 1,500 cases imported. – WS 89 points

This has been a consistent winner from importer Peter Weygandt since he first brought the Domaine du Fontenille to the attention of American wine consumers in the early nineties. A blend of 70% Grenache (50- to 60-year-old vines) and 30% Syrah, yields are kept modest, and the wine is aged in concrete tanks for over a year prior to being bottled without filtration. A super-aromatic example of the vintage, the 2007 exhibits loads of pepper, earth, black cherry, and dusty, loamy soil notes. The wine’s fruit, earthiness, and spiciness are all classic characteristics of Provence. Seriously endowed and medium to full-bodied with excellent purity and depth, this Cotes du Luberon should drink well for 2-3 years. – WA 88 points

Domaine de Poulvarel Costieres de Nimes Rouge 2007, $17.99/btl – Rhone, France – 50% Grenache, 50% Syrah – 14% abv – The two red wines include an equal part blend of Grenache and Syrah, the 2007 Costieres de Nimes, a richly textured effort that tastes more like a northern Rhone with the Syrah component dominating both the aromatics and flavors. Blackberry, licorice, and tar notes along with terrific fruit and medium to full body are found in this 2007. Its style is not terribly dissimilar from a St.-Joseph. Drink it over the next 4-5 years. – WA 89 points

Domaine de L’Ancienne Mercerie Faugeres les Petites Mains 2007, $27.99/btl - Languedoc, France – 30% Carignan, 30% Syrah, 25% Grenache, 15% Mourvedre – 15% abv – The 2007 Faugeres Les Petites Mains – a blend of Grenache, Carignan, Syrah, and slightly less Mourvedre – displays heady black fruit ripeness with overtones of smoke and fruit distillate. On the palate, plush, sweet, dense, yet exuberantly fresh black raspberry, boysenberry, and cassis are tinged with cardamom, clove, tonka bean, and rosemary. There is at most the slightest trace of heat and drying from its 15% alcohol, but this is delightful, rich red and an excellent value ready to enjoy today, yet probably worth following for at least 4-6 years. – WA 90 points

Yann Chave Crozes Hermitage 2007, $27.99/btl – Rhone, France – 100% Syrah – 13% abv – Bright and open, with tasty black cherry, currant and aged tobacco notes. Fresh finish. Drink now. 5,000 cases made. – WS 88 points


That’s right folks, Sancerre and goat cheese. Well, we actually expanded the wine selection a bit further out to include most of the Loire Valley, but there will be Sancerre and there will be goat cheese.

FireFly Farms formed when a small group of friends decided to join forces and enter the world of domestic goat cheese making. Since its inception in 2002, FireFly Farms artisan goat’s milk cheeses have received 28 individual national and international awards for excellence.

FireFly Farms is dedicated to the art of cheese making. FireFly Farms artisanal goat cheeses are made according to time-honored tradition – they are produced and ripened with handmade care. We take special care to ensure the purity, quality, and clean flavor of our milk. Our aged cheeses are ripened in a specially constructed aging room – we shun short cuts and artificial techniques aimed at increasing yield or shelf life at the expense of taste and quality.

At FireFly Farms, we believe in the interdependence of people with one another and with our environment, and we are committed to caring for the land and protecting biodiversity for today’s communities and future generations. – Firefly Farms

The lineup of wines is as follows:

Caves Plouzeau Chinon Bonneliere Les Devants Touraine  Sauvignon Blanc 2008, $15.99/btl – Loire, France – 100% Sauvignon Blanc – 12.5% abv – From chalky, flinty soils along the Cher, Marc Plouzeau has crafted a 2008 Touraine Sauvignon redolent of white peach and passion fruit; lean and quite dense; but finishing with refreshing juiciness, a saline tang, and hints of cherry pit and pistachio. Enjoy it over the next 6-9 months. – WA 87 points

Domaine Villalin Quincy Silex 2007, $19.99/btl – Loire, France – 100% Sauvignon Blanc – 12.5% abv – As proprietors Jean-Jacques Smith and his wife Maryline tell it, they are the only growers in their appellation to harvest entirely by hand, and the parcel in which their 2007 Quincy Cuvee Silex originates was already planted a dozen centuries ago. Certainly on the strength of this wine Domaine Villalin can be added to the short list of those that make Quincy worth of the attention of value-hunters and Sauvignon-hounds, and their label’s depiction of donkey and dudelsack (which Smith raises and plays, respectively) is unforgettable. Flowers and crushed stone in the nose mingle with gooseberry, white currant, and lime on a sappy, refreshing, and strikingly saline palate. Hints of toasted almond, caraway, and nettle add to the whiplash and salt wash of a finish in this impressive even though not terribly ripe Sauvignon, which will prove highly invigorating and versatile over the coming year. – WA 89 points

Domaine Serge Dagueneau et Filles Pouilly-Fume Les Pentes 2007, $26.99/btl – Loire, France – 100% Sauvignon Blanc – 12.5% abv – Soft, with floral and lemon curd notes and a gentle finish that verges on blowsy. Drink now. 500 cases imported.

Gerard et Pierre Morin Sancerre Vieilles Vignes 2007, $24.99/btl – Loire, France – 100% Sauvignon Blanc – 13% abv – Bracing, with flint and chive flower notes that stay taut through the slightly lean finish. Good length. Drink now. 400 cases imported. – WS 87 points

Pascal et Nicolas Reverdy Sancerre Les Coutes 2008, $22.99/btl – Loire, France – 100% Sauvignon Blanc – 13% abv – On the strength of their 2008 Sancerre Les Coutes Nicolas Reverdy’s widow Sophie and son Pascal are not letting family tragedy or challenging weather interfere with rendering exceptional examples of their appellation. Grapefruit, lime, mint, sage, wood smoke, and crushed stone in the nose lead to a palate of exuberant brightness, delicacy (at 12.6% – natural – alcohol), yet oily richness, and boasting a depth of chalk, salt, iodine, and shellfish-like nuances that simply has to be tasted to be believed. If you don’t want to be left with a mouthful of mineral flavors you can’t wash out, then stay clear of this wine (and leave it for the rest of us)! Like other recent Reverdy bottlings done for the United States, this was neither cold-stabilized nor filtered. You can count on its being worth following for at least the next 3-4 years. – WA 92 points

Domaine Edmond Vatan Sancerre Clos la Neore 2008, $65.99/btl – Loire, France – 100% Sauvignon Blanc – 13.5% abv – RMP [Robert M. Parker, Jr.] wanted to add that this summer he has drunk a full case of the 2005 Sancerre Clos la Neore, which he consistently rated between 92 and 94. The wine represents pure liquid minerals! – David Schildknecht, The Wine Advocate

And the lineup of Firefly Farms Goat’s Milk Cheeses:

Allegheny Chevre – Allegheny Chevre is our fresh, un-ripened goat’s milk cheese. It is a traditional chevre, crumbly in texture with a clean and tangy flavor. It’s a versatile ingredient in everyday cooking or finer cuisines. Crumbled on a salad, spread on sandwich, used in pasta dishes, or blended with spices for use as a spread, it is a perfect creamy addition to your meal.

Aging Notes
Allegheny Chevre is not aged. It generally takes us 3-4 days to make and package this fresh chevre and it is not uncommon to have it in the market within a week’s time. This is FireFly Farms most popular cheese, largely because there are so many uses for it in the kitchen. Like all cheese, it is best brought to room temperature before serving or using in a recipe.

Serving, Wrapping and Cooking
Allegheny Chevre is FireFly Farms most popular cheese, largely because there are so many uses for it in the kitchen. Like all cheese, it is best brought to room temperature before serving or using in a recipe.

We use the Allegheny Chevre as a healthier substitute for cream cheese, or used as a goat’s milk alternative for cheeses like ricotta. We’ve used it cooked in cheesecakes and lasagna, or crumbled on salads, pizzas, and crostini. Hint: If using in heated applications like pizza, add the crumbled chevre when the pizza is removed from the oven, not before. The heat of the oven will liquify this delicate fresh cheese; the heat of your cooling pizza will make it perfectly creamy. Plain or seasoned, it can spread on sandwiches, bagels or breads.

Once you have removed the originally wrapping of your Allegheny Chevre log, you can re-wrap in fresh plastic or put in a plastic containter or even a butter dish. Our chevres can be frozed beautifully. We have done freezer tests on whole and half logs of Allegheny Chevre for up to 4-weeks. Once removed from the freezer, allow the chevre to thaw for 24-hours in the refrigerator. Thawing faster on the counter is not recommended as it will cause water loss in the cheese and change its texture.

Ingredients
Pasteurized goat milk
Bacterials starter cultures (gluten-free)
Vegetable rennet
Salt

Bûche Noire – Bûche Noire is French for “black log.” It is a sophisticated, aged chevre log, first coated in vegetable ash and then aged for several weeks to develop a white-bloomed rind. The result is delicious. A rapidly maturing flavor and texture certain to please the most discerning of palates. The ashed rind is completely edible at any stage of the cheese’s ripening. In fact, the cheese’s fullest flavor is concentrated in its rind.

Awards and Honors
World Cheese Awards – 2006 Silver Medalist
American Dairy Goat Association Cheese Competition – 2006 Third Place
American Cheese Society, Cheese Judging – 2006 Third Place

Aging Notes
Weeks 1-3
Bûche Noire is considered a soft-ripened chevre. It develops its white-bloomed rind within a week’s time in our aging room. We wrap the young Bûche Noires at 2-3 weeks old to ensure that they have the maximum shelf life possible. At this stage, Bûche Noires are firm to the touch and have a clean, uncomplicated taste that is tangy like the Allehgheny Chevre. These young Bûche Noires can be used in cooking, but only with very gentle heat. We love putting a slice of Bûche Noire on the top of a bowl of warm soup.

Weeks 4-8
Because this cheese is a small-format, ripened, higher-moisture chevre, it moves directly from childhood into adulthood with very little “adolescence” to speak of. The ripening work of the white mold happens quickly, particularly at room temperature and the body of the cheese becomes creamy (to the point of finger-licking runny-ness). It’s flavor develops equally fast during this period, developing the earthy spiciness that identifies Bûche Noire. Not for the feint of heart, this delicate star is worth the extra care it requires and has developed a commited following among FireFly afficionados.

Serving, Wrapping and Cooking
Bûche Noire is a lovely addition to your meals. Its character is best suited for appetizer or cheese board, but it can be used mindfully in cooking. We love to spread a ripened Bûche Noire on a day-old crusty baguette and top it with a little sauteed mushroom tapendade. This, served with a nice Pinot Noir, is often dinner.

Once you have removed its original wrapping, DO NOT re-wrap in plastic wrap. This delicate star will suffocate and die a horrible soupy mess. Re-wrap in parchment or wax paper, or store a partially consumed Bûche Noire in a plastic container or on a dessert plate that’s covered in plastic wrap. Both methods allow for a bit of air around the cheese and continued breathing.

Ingredients
Pasteurized goat milk
Vegetable rennet
Bacterials starter cultures (gluten-free)
Vegetable ash
Salt
Enzymes

Merry Goat Round – Merry Goat Round is a surface-ripened goat’s milk round. It is our homage to brie or camembert and shares the same surface ripening mold as these traditional cheeses. It ripens from its rind inwards, growing progressively softer and creamier. The rind is completely edible at any stage of the cheese’s ripening. In fact, the cheese’s fullest flavor is concentrated in its rind.

Awards and Honors
World Cheese Awards – 2008 Silver Medalist, 2007 Bronze Medalist, 2004 Silver Medalist
American Dairy Goat Association Cheese Competition – 2007 Third Place, 2006 First Place
American Cheese Society, Cheese Judging – 2002 Third Place

Aging Notes
Weeks 1-3
Merry Goat Round is considered a soft-ripened cheese. It develops its white-bloomed rind within a week’s time in our aging room. We wrap the young Merry Goat Rounds at 2-3 weeks old to ensure that they have the maximum shelf life possible. At this stage, Merry Goat Round’s are firm to the touch and have a clean, uncomplicated taste that is slightly sharp. These young Merry Goat Rounds can be used in cooking, and will melt nicely.

Weeks 4-6
We think of this period as “adolescence” for Merry Goat Round. The rind is beginning to do its work, and when the cheese is cut you can see the ripening cheese body just below the rind. At room temperature, this ripened portion of the cheese body will be soft (and in the Spring quite creamy). The taste of the cheese is developing rapidly during this period; and the clean sharpness of the young cheese becomes increasingly complex and mushroomy.

Weeks 7-12
During this period, the “adult” Merry Goat Round reaches its fullest and most complex flavor profile. The rind has now ripened the cheese body ¼ to ½ inch toward its center. The cheese will feel soft to the touch, particularly at room temperature. Secondary molds and other “imperfections” may appear on the surface. The white-bloomed rind of youth begins to deepen to lovely orange hues. When unwrapped at this age, the captured ammonia (an exhalation by-product of the rind as it ripens the cheese body) may need to dissipate – allowing these older Merry Goat Rounds the time to “breathe” as they warm before serving is time well spent.

Serving, Wrapping and Cooking
Merry Goat Round is a lovely addition to your meals. It can be served alone as an appetizer, cut for a cheese board, served with crackers and a savory tapenade, or used in finer cuisines. Younger cheeses are definitely better for cooking, as they will withstand the heat of melting better; more mature cheeses shine as “solo-acts” on cheese boards, or served with complimentary stand out ingredients: a beautifully ripened pear, cured olives, sautéed mushrooms, or seasoned pecans.

Once you have removed its original wrapping, take care not to re-wrap too tightly in plastic wrap. This will suffocate the cheese. We store a partially consumed Merry Goat Round in a plastic container or a dessert plate covered in plastic wrap. Both methods allow for a bit of air around the cheese and continued breathing.

Ingredients
Pasteurized goat milk
Vegetable rennet
Bacterials starter cultures (gluten-free)
Salt
Enzymes

Mountain Top Bleu – Mountain Top Bleu is a surface-ripened blue and white mold pyramid. It ripens from its rind inwards, growing progressively softer and creamier. The rind is completely edible at any stage of the cheese’s ripening. In fact, the cheese’s fullest flavor is concentrated in its rind.

Awards and Honors
World Cheese Awards- 2008 Bronze Medalist, 2006 Silver Medalist, 2004 Bronze Medalist
American Dairy Goat Association Cheese Competition – 2009 Second Place, 2007 First Place, 2006 Third Place
American Cheese Society, Cheese Judging – 2006 Second Place, 2005 Third Place Finisher, 2004 Third Place, 2002 First Place
Saveur Magazine, 2005 Editor’s Pick – 50 Favorite American Cheeses

Aging Notes
Weeks 1-3
MountainTop Bleu is considered a soft-ripened cheese. We work hard to balance the white and blue molds to produce a cheese that has the luscious creaminess of a world-class soft-ripened cheeses plus the delicate piquancy of a blue mold cheese. This balancing act changes with the temperature of the seasons and the composition of the milk — as an artisan cheese, you’ll note that sometimes MountainTop’s are more blue; sometimes less. But they will always have that same subtle and distinctive taste.

It develops its white and blue-bloomed rind within a week’s time in our aging room. We wrap the young MountainTop Bleus at 2-3 weeks old to ensure that they have the maximum shelf life possible. At this stage, MountainTop Bleus are firm to the touch. The blue piquancy tends to be more pronouced at this stage — before the white mold has a chance to ripen and soften the cheese body. These young MountainTop Bleus can be used in cooking, and will melt nicely.

Weeks 4-6
We think of this period as “adolescence” for MountainTop Bleus. The rind beginning to do its work and when the cheese is cut, you can see the ripening cheese body just below the rind. At room temperature, this ripened portion of the cheese body will be soft (and in the Spring quite creamy). The taste of the cheese is developing rapidly during this period; and the clean sharpness of the young cheese becomes increasingly complex as white and bluie molds do their work in tandem.

Weeks 7-12
During this period, the “adult” MountainTop Bleu reaches its fullest and most complex flavor profile. The rind has now ripened the cheese body ½ inch or more toward its center. The cheese will feel soft to the touch, particularly at room temperature. Secondary molds and other “imperfections” may appear on the surface. The white and blue-bloomed rind of youth begins to deepen to lovely darker hues. When unwrapped at this age, the captured ammonia (an exhalation by-product of the rind as it ripens the cheese body) may need to dissipate – allowing these older MountainTop Bleus the time to “breathe” as they warm before serving is time well spent.

Serving, Wrapping and Cooking
MountainTop Bleu is a lovely addition to your meals. It can be served alone as an appetizer, cut for a cheese board, served with crackers and a savory tapenade, or used in finer cuisines. Younger cheeses are definitely better for cooking, as they will withstand the heat of melting better; more mature cheeses shine as “solo-acts” on cheese boards, or served with complimentary stand out ingredients: stewed figs, Spanish or Portugese membrillo, or cured olives.

Once you have removed its original wrapping, take care not to re-wrap too tightly in plastic wrap. This will suffocate the cheese. We store a partially consumed MountainTop Bleu in a plastic container or a dessert plate covered in plastic wrap. Both methods allow for a bit of air around the cheese and continued breathing.

Ingredients
Pasteurized goat milk
Vegetable rennet
Bacterials starter cultures (gluten-free)
Salt
Enzymes

Thanks to Uwe Schiefer and all who stopped by to talk about and taste this tremendously talented winemaker’s goods. We had a very good showing and had a lot of fun meeting all of the Austrian wine enthusiasts in the area.

Stay tuned for details of this coming Saturday’s Sancerre and Firefly Farms Goat Cheese Tasting. Other than Champagne and caviar or white Burgundy and lobster, we can’t think of a more classic combination than Sancerre with cheese made from goat’s milk. We’ll let you know exactly what we’re pouring and spreading as soon as we get details.

As for this shortened work week (for some of you), we’ll pour a couple of surprising whites and 4 reds we think most of you have not tried as of yet. (Two of which are rated 90 points or higher from The Wine Advocate!) The lineup:

Josef Schmid Riesling Vom Urgestein Bergterrassen 2007, 24.99/btl – Kremstal, Austria – 100% Riesling – 13% abv – Offers a floral, spicy aroma, with intense Granny Smith apple, peach and pear flavors. Slate and pepper flavors fill the finish. Drink now through 2012. 833 cases made. – WS 89 points

Domaine Schoffit Chasselas Vieilles Vignes 2008, $23.99/btl – Alsace, France – 100% Chasselas – 13% abv – Originating in Colmar, the historic cave is still situated in the city – the domaine owns lovely parcels in Harth, situated right outside the city. In 1986 the domaine purchased the Clos St. Theobald in the famous Rangen de Thann, and more recently a parcel in (Grand Cru) Sommerberg. The domaine is then divided into three relatively distant terroirs – with gravel of the Harth, the granite of Grand Cru Sommerberg and the volcanic in Rangen de Thann … with the opulent v.t.’s and s.g.n.’s of anthology, the immense notoriety of Rangen tends to eclipse the other terroirs. The other wines though are more accessible with, in particular, a lovely range of Pinot Blanc and Auxerrois, always well balanced. More rare the Chasselas Caroline presents a density little found in this varietal. The Riesling Sommerberg shows great promise. – Le Classement, 2003 Revue du Vin de France

Weingut Trapl St. Laurent 2007, $21.99/btl – Carnuntum, Austria – 100% St. Laurent – 13% abv – Young Johannes Trapl – who took over his family’s property (supplemented by rental acreage) and constructed a winery in 2000 – is one of four growers serious about Blaufrankisch in the Spitzerberg (for more about which, see my reports on Muhr-Niepoort in this issue and in issue 177). On my first visit, I did not attempt to canvass Trapl’s entire line, which includes also St. Laurent, Zweigelt, and even a bit of the Bordelaise varieties. Clearly, he is on a steep learning curve. Early in its evolution, a basic 2007 Blaufrankisch from young vines in the Spitzerberg and nearer the winery tasted promising, even if tartness of fruit and notes from barrel were somewhat at odds, and a dedicated 2007 bottling from some impressive Blaufrankisch grown in Stixneusiedel was also envisioned. – David Schildknecht, The Wine Advocate

Domaine La Berangeraie Cahors Malbec Les Traversets 2007, $16.99/btl – Cahors, France – 100% Malbec – 13% abv – This has spicy and fruity aromas, with dense, ripe flavors of blackberry, dark plum and chocolate. The short, tannic finish features spiced cherry notes. Drink now through 2012. 50 cases imported. – WS 87 points

Domaine L’Oustal Blanc Naick 6 Rouge 2006, $20.99/btl – Languedoc, France – 100% 60% Cinsault, 20% Carignan, 20% Syrah and Grenache.- 14% abv – Aromas of nutmeg, sandalwood, pungent herbs, and ripe cherry distinguish the 2006 vintage Naick 6. Bitter hints of cherry pit, black tea, and herbs, along with an undertone of wet stone mark this wine’s palate personality as cooler, more aloof than its year-younger counterpart. But there is a similarly impressive sheer persistence of fresh fruit and herbs, and this should give a whole lot of pleasure for at least a couple more years. – WA 90 points

Chateau Mourgues du Gres Capitelles des Mourgues 2007, $24.99/btl – Rhone, France – 83% Syrah, 17% Carignan and Grenache – 14.5% abv – A sensational red wine is the 2007 Capitelles du Mourgues, a Cote Rotie look-alike from the treasure-trove of values, Costieres de Nimes. A combination of 83% Syrah and the rest Carignan and Grenache, all aged in 600 liter demi-muids, it boasts an opaque purple color as well as an extraordinary nose of blackberries, creme de cassis, licorice, and spring flowers. Sensational purity, full-bodied richness, good underlying freshness and vibrancy, and an amazingly long finish suggest a wine that costs 2-3 times as much. This exceptional effort should evolve for a decade. – WA 92 points

Background for this special event can be found here. Other than telling you Uwe Schiefer will be in the shop today and is a truly nice and interesting man (along with being a star winemaker), we’ll just cut to the chase and let you know what we’re pouring. The lineup:

Schiefer Gruner Veltliner Tschaterberg 2008, $18.99

Schiefer Blaufrankisch Konigsberg 2007, $24.99

Schiefer Blaufrankisch Eisenberg 2007, $26.99

Schiefer Blaufrankisch Pala 2007, $27.99

Schiefer Blaufrankisch Reihburg 2006, $66.99

We expect Uwe Schiefer to get into the store just after noon, so we’re planning a 1 pm to 4 pm tasting.

On Saturday, January 16, please help us welcome critically acclaimed winemaker Uwe Schiefer. Peter Weygandt and Uwe will stop in between noon and 4 pm to talk about some of the greatest wines from Austria.

Schiefer’s principle: “Less is more” – his aim is a genuine winemaking. He produces wines in a very puristic style focusing on naturalness. Currently he works in some vineyards biodynamic, but wants to change all vineyard culture to biodynamic in the coming years.

The Südburgenland is Austria’s smallest wine producing province and straddles the border with Hungary. There are a total of 400 hectares under vine. The finest vineyard is the 120 ha Eisenberg, a steep schistus slate hillside where Uwe Schiefer  (by coincidence the word Schiefer meaning slate in German) works now on 5 hectares. About 10 years ago, he started putting together his estate, nearly all planted to Blaufränkisch.

I wrote extensively in issue 177 about Uwe Schiefer and his remarkable and distinctive Blaufrankisch from the once-famous Eisenberg area on the Hungarian border in South Burgenland. His 2006 collection almost certainly represents the best of his eight to date, hence some of the most exciting red wine ever produced in Austria. Despite his relatively brief history, Schiefer’s conception of Blaufrankisch as a wine with site-sensitivity and finesse comparable, and best handled in a manner akin to that of Burgundian Pinot Noir and not a wine of, as he puts it, “tannin and power,” or one best marked by small toasty barrels, has begun to resonate within Austria, not least in the exciting Moric wines of Roland Velich (the 2006s of which are reviewed in this report). – David Schildknecht, The Wine Advocate

Seriously folks, who opens Barolo for everyone to taste? I’m not going to name any names, but their initials are Weygandt Wines. Nebbiolo is one of those grapes that is often not recognized, mainly due to the dent it can put in one’s wallet. Who takes a chance on a $75 wine that they’ve never had anything remotely similar to? Well, today is your chance to try one of the legendary wines of Italy. Beef, Boar, Bison – really anything that roams the earth on four legs is a good match for this powerful yet elegant wine. There’s really nothing quite like a well crafted Barolo. And with three vintages that scored 95, 96 and 96 respectively (1999, 2001 and 2004) from The Wine Advocate, whether you’re a first-timer or a seasoned Barolo vet, you’ll be a happy camper if you come by the shop today. The lineup can be found here.

The Roussillon region has been described (by Hugh Johnson) as perhaps potentially the most impressive part of the Languedoc. The wines of young Jean Gardies confirm Mr. Johnson’s confidence. A few years ago he took over the family domaine and has gradually increased the amount of the production which he is releasing in bottle. There are “super cuvees” of Syrah pure (Les Falaises), Mourvedre (La Torre) and Grenache Vieilles Vignes (we can’t get these yet, because of private customer demand), which were considered the top wines produced in the Roussillon in vintage 2000 by the Revue du Vin de France. Yet even his cuvee Les Milleres, with no barrique aging, shows Gardies’ great gift for making structured, concentrated, yet elegant wines.

Today and Friday, along with Monday-Friday next week, we’ll pour 2 whites, 3 reds and one dessert to give you a good idea of the style and range of this tremendously talented winemaker/producer. (This Saturday, we’ll interupt this tasting for a brief trip to the Piedmont.) The Lineup:

Domaine Gardies Vin de Pays des Cotes Catalanes Mas Las Cabes 2008, $14.99/btl – Roussillon, France – 70% Muscat, 15% Macabeo, 15% Grenache Blanc – 13.5% abv – This has a fruity aroma, with bright flavors of peach, honeysuckle, beeswax and mineral notes. The lush finish is broad and spicy. Muscat, Grenache and Maccabeo. Drink now. 200 cases imported. – WS 87 points – WS 87 points

Domaine Gardies Cotes du Roussillon Les Glaciaires 2007, $19.99/btl – Roussillon, France – 40% Roussanne, 40% Grenache Blanc, 20% Macabeo – 13% abv – This rich, exotic white shows ripe tropical fruit flavors of mango and pineapple, with notes of baked peach. The finish is spicy, with plenty of firm acidity and a juicy freshness. Roussanne, Grenache Blanc and Macabeo. Drink now through 2012. 50 cases imported. – WS 88 points

From Roussanne, Grenache Blanc, and Macabeu vinified in year-old barrels, the Gardies 2007 Cotes du Roussillon Les Glaciaires smells of lime zest, peach, pungent, musky flowers, white pepper, resin, lanolin, and spicy oak. A saline and distinctly peppery, Roussanne-dominated palate leads to a bright finish, with a tactile impression of peach fuzz and pineapple tartness, and just a bit of heat and overt oakiness. Jean Gardies – whom I did not have a chance to visit with last December – farms his family’s holdings in the chalk-clay soils of Vingrau and the black schist Espira de l’Agly sector along the Agly just outside Perpignan. – WA 87 points

Domaine Gardies Cotes du Roussillon Mas Las Cabes Rouge 2008, $16.99/btl – Roussillon, France – 60% Syrah, 30% Grenache Noir, 10% Carignan – 13.5% abv

Domaine Gardies Cotes du Roussillon Villages Les Milleres 2007, $19.99/btl – Roussillon, France – 40% Grenache Noir, 35% Syrah, 20% Carignan, 5% Mourvedre – 13.5% abv – Full-bodied, with powerful dark fruit flavors, including kirsch, plum and dark cherry, followed by intense notes of cocoa powder and Asian spice on the muscular finish. Best from 2010 through 2013. 200 cases imported. – WS 90 points

A blend of Grenache, Syrah, and Carignan with a smidgeon of Mourvedre, Gardies’ 2007 Cotes du Roussillon Villages Les Milleres smells of lightly cooked red raspberry, grenadine, walnut husk, juniper, and subtly integrated vanilla and spice from the half of this cuvee that spends time in used barrels. With a vividly sappy concentration of tart red fruit, resin, and tar, with accents of cardamom and black pepper, this coats the palate and lingers with invigorating tartness and pungency, if also a trace of heat. I would not let its abundant, fine-grained tannin stand in the way of enjoying this wine over the next several years, particularly with red meats. A recent pair of additions to the Gardies line-up is labeled for the Mas Las Cabes property in the Espira de l’Agly. Jean Gardies – whom I did not have a chance to visit with last December – farms his family’s holdings in the chalk-clay soils of Vingrau and the black schist Espira de l’Agly sector along the Agly just outside Perpignan. – WA 89 points

Domaine Gardies Cotes du Roussillon Villages Tautavel Vieilles Vignes 2006, $29.99/btl – Roussillon, France – 70% Grenache Noire, 20% Syrah, 10% Carignan – 14% abv – This intense, powerful red from the south of France is filled with concentrated flavors of kirsch, dark chocolate and plum pudding. The rich finish of Christmas cake and mocha features plenty of grip. Drink now through 2014. 100 cases imported. – WS 91 points

Gardies’ 2006 Cotes du Roussillon Villages Vieilles Vignes Tautavel – a barrel-matured cuvee of Grenache with smaller amounts of Syrah, Carignan, and Mourvedre – offers a captivating and penetrating aroma of grilled meats, pungent cinnamon and nutmeg, cedar, ester-rich notes of kirsch, black pepper, and vanilla. Palpably dense, firm in texture, and suffused with fine-gained tannins, this nicely balances spice and resin with high-toned distilled cherry and purple plum, an underlying depth of bitter dark chocolate and chalk becoming more prominent in its long finish. I would anticipate it being worth cellaring for at least 5-6 years. Jean Gardies – whom I did not have a chance to visit with last December – farms his family’s holdings in the chalk-clay soils of Vingrau and the black schist Espira de l’Agly sector along the Agly just outside Perpignan. – WA 90 points

Domaine Gardies Muscat de Rivesaltes 2006 500ml, $24.99/btl – Roussillon, France – 100% Muscat – 15.5% abv – A zesty honeyed dessert wine from Rivesaltes.

As the days get shorter and colder, one must think of self-preservation. And while there is nothing we can do about the temperature outside, we can make suggestions on what to do to help protect yourself from the elements:

1. Wear a coat.

2. Don’t go outside.

3. While not outside, eat hearty stews and drink Barolo.

While #’s 1 and 2 might fall into the categories of either obvious or not possible, #3 is what we would like to highlight. And with that in mind, we present to you the wines of Luciano Pira:

One doesn’t go into a renowned area like Barolo to find something ordinary for one’s clients. We had the good fortune to find not only a top quality producer, but a like-minded one, as well, in Luciano Pira. There are no barriques in Luciano’s cellar for Barolo. He has only 8 hectares total of Dolcetto, Barbera, Barolo. He works the vine himself and has a high proportion of old vines near Serralunga and crafts traditional Barolo, with great depth and balance. Moreover, Luciano has parcels in Il Prapo and Terruzza, two of the top single vineyards around Serralunga. I personally love great Barolo and so it was easy to love Luciano Pira’s wines. – Peter Weygandt

On Saturday, January 9, between noon and 4 pm, we’ll open 5 of our flagship Piedmontese wines. In addition, all of these wines will be on sale for 25% off! For one day only, come in, taste and go home with some truly special wines at a terrific price. Just make sure you start the stew before you come into the store. The lineup:

Schiavenza Barolo 2004, Sale Price $44.99 (Regularly $58.99) – Piedmont, Italy – 100% Nebbiolo – 14.5% abv – The 2004 Barolo is a floral mid-weight Barolo with terrific delineation and clarity in its dark fruit, menthol and spices. The tannins remain a touch firm, but the wine’s balance is impeccable, particularly at this level. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2020. Proprietor Luciano Pira is typically among the last producers to bottle his Barolos, so these 2004s are the current releases. Incidentally, the Schiavenza family also runs an informal trattoria in the center of town that features authentic regional cooking at very fair prices. – WA 89+ points

Schiavenza Barolo Bricco Cerretta 2004, Sale Price $49.99 (Regularly $67.99) – Piedmont, Italy – 100% Nebbiolo – 14.5% abv – The 2004 Barolo Bricco Cerretta is a gorgeous wine redolent of cherries, plums, spices and minerals in a layered, delicate expression of Serralunga Nebbiolo. Sweet scents of tar, smoke and leather make an appearance on the vibrant, pure finish. This gorgeous wine from Schiavenza is more approachable today than the imposing Prapo. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2022. Proprietor Luciano Pira is typically among the last producers to bottle his Barolos, so these 2004s are the current releases. Incidentally, the Schiavenza family also runs an informal trattoria in the center of town that features authentic regional cooking at very fair prices. – WA 92 points

Schiavenza Barolo Vigneto Bricco Cerretta 2001, Sale Price $44.99 (Regularly $59.99) – Piedmont, Italy – 100% Nebbiolo – 14% abv – Complex, intense ruby red with garnet reflections fruity, fine, ample and ripe red fruits, note of liquorice and spice. Full-bodied, fresh, lusty tannins, balanced, very long persistence. Fermented and macerated in cement for 15-20 days and aged in Slovenian barrels from 30 to 40 hectoliters for three years. Great with grilled and braised red meat as well as aged cheeses, A big wine with great aging potential.

Schiavenza Barolo Vigneto Prapo 2001, Sale Price $41.99 (Regularly $54.99) – Piedmont, Italy – 100% Nebbiolo – 14% abv – Complex, intense ruby red with garnet reflections, this Barolo has ripe fruit with hints of rose and violas. Very intense and typical for this cru. Good structure, well defined with big tannins, excellent acidity and long after taste. This is a wine with character and personality. Fermentated and macerated in cement for 15-20 days (25-30 degrees) and aged in Slovenian barrels from 20 to 40 hectoliters for three years. Perfectly suitable with red meat, game and seasoned cheese – recommended with typical Piemonte dishes.

Schiavenza Barolo Riserva 1999, Sale Price $59.99 (Regularly $79.99) – Piedmont, Italy – 100% Nebbiolo – 14% abv – Medium ruby. This Riserva is the finest wine I have tasted from this estate. It displays a fresh, floral nose that opens onto the palate, revealing highly attractive layers of sweet red fruit and toasted oak nuances with exceptional length and fine tannins. It is surprisingly medium-bodied for a wine from Serralunga in this vintage; in fact its flavors are much more typical of a Barolo from La Morra. It should drink well to age 15. Drink after 2007. – WA 92 points

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