Since our initial post, we have added one more Riesling to add to the tasting. Georg Mosbacher Riesling Qualitätswein Trocken Pfalz Freundstück Forst GG 2007 has been added to the list. A great opportunity to taste a wine from what is considered to be one of the great parcels in Germany!

Many believe that Riesling is the greatest of all white wine grapes. This Saturday we’ll explore the contrasts between four excellent examples of Riesling from two of Germany’s finest wine-growing estates, Heymann-Lowenstein and Georg Mosbacher.

Reinhard Lowenstein, whose family had, for generations been winegrowers, has become one of the most famous and iconoclast winemakers in Germany. His wines are so sought after that he sells nearly 60% of his production to private customers in Germany, and the rest are highly allocated around the world.

Readers unfamiliar with the influential and inspiring – though not uncontroversial – work of Reinhard Lowenstein in the ultra-steep, terraced, geologically diverse slopes of the Mosel just above its confluence with the Rhine are urged to consult my accounts in issues 163 and 167. Among Lowenstein’s much-discussed ideas – not that I personally treat this as less than obvious – is that Mosel, Saar, and Ruwer Rieslings are more expressive, better-balanced, and have better aging potential – while potentially, for all practical purposes, still tasting essentially dry – when their residual sugar is allowed to rest above legal Trockenheit. Lowenstein’s nobly sweet Rieslings frequently tend toward a creaminess and sense of lees and stuffing consistent with his dry wines, yet they incorporate at their best a sense of delicacy, refinement, and transparency to mineral sensations that seldom apply to any other grape than Riesling or at any significant distance from the Mosel The 2007 vintage Auslesen tend in fact to be quite obvious in their acidity, and are designated “gold capsule” to reflect their high quality, not because there are any corresponding “regular” Auslese bottlings. – David Schildknecht, The Wine Advocate

Weingut Georg Mosbacher is considered to be “one of the best estates of the Palatinate region; it has made its way to the top by virtue of the distinctive quality of its wines and without the help of PR campaigns.” – Marco Polo Guide, The Best Wines of Germany

Georg Mosbacher Riesling Kabinett Pfalz Forster 2007, $22.99/btl – Pfalz, Germany – 100% Riesling – 13% abv – Inviting, with spice-tinged peach, persimmon, orange and white pepper aromas and flavors. This comes together nicely and stays firm and focused from start to finish. Drink now through 2020. 100 cases imported. – WS 90 points

The scarcely-sweet Mosbacher 2007 Forster Riesling Kabinett offers a peachy, slightly musky nose; a sappy, slightly rustic palate; and excellent thirst-quenching length. As such it is typical of Riesling from lesser sites in this famous, tiny village, whose top sites give arguably the most complex and mysterious wines in the Pfalz. I would plan on enjoying over the next 2-3 years, although there is certainly no need to hold it. – WA 87 points

Georg Mosbacher Riesling Spätlese Trocken Pfalz Forster Musenhang 2007, $29.99/btl – Pfalz, Germany – 100 % Riesling – 10% abv – Ample in both flavor and texture. Rich and round, it’s permeated by nectarine, grapefruit and stone aromas and flavors that remain intense and long. Fine, dry, refreshing finish. Drink now through 2018. 10 cases imported. – WS 90 points

From a relatively cool, breezy, and little-known site above Pechstein and just below the forests that cap the Mittelhaardt, the Mosbacher 2007 Forster Musenhang Riesling Spatlese trocken is predictably cool in its emphasis on mint, sassafras, and under-ripe honeydew melon, with a juicy but restrained palate presence; moderate body; and decided imitations (or intimations) of wet stone in its satisfyingly long finish. I would feel free to plan on holding this for as long as 8-10 years. – WA 89 points

Georg Mosbacher Riesling Qualitätswein Trocken Pfalz Freundstück Forst GG 2007, $34.99/btl – Pfalz, Germany – 100% Riesling – 13% abv – This dry white is rich and fruity, making it seem a touch softer than it actually is. The acidity is deftly woven into the texture, showing more on the finish, which has a nice chalky feel. Drink now through 2019. 15 cases imported. – WS 91 points

From the least-known of Forst sites classified for bottling as Grosses Gewachs (abutting Kirchenstuck), the Mosbacher 2007 Forster Freundstuck Riesling Grosses Gewachs displays Gewurztraminer-like litchi, brown spices, and black pepper as well as a glossy, glycerin-rich texture and opulent richness, albeit at the price of slight, prickly alcohol- and/or botrytis-induced heat. A sappy, spicy, pungently peppery cling here leads one to overlook any minor flaws, and I would simply plan to monitor this in case if proves best drunk within 5-7 years rather than a decade.

I had not visited the well-regarded estate now run by Sabine Mosbacher and Jurgen Duringer for close to a decade, and was quite impressed with the quality at this address. They spoke openly about concerns in 2007 that botrytis might compromise dryness not to mention quality, two reasons why they chose to utilize cultured yeasts for some cuvees rather than letting as many as usual of their fermentations take-off spontaneously. Had a low level of botrytis not been tolerated in the Grosse Gewachse here, those bottlings would probably have been closer to the understated but intriguing personalities of the rest of this year’s Mosbacher collection, but as it is they are certainly imposingly rich. – WA 90 points

Heymann-Lowenstein Riesling Qualitätswein Mosel Von Blauem Schiefer 2006, $24.99/btl – Mosel, Germany – 100% Riesling – 13% abv – Light yet intense, with peach, pear, butter and mineral salt notes wrapped around a core of acidity. This is vivid and stays etched on the palate through the lingering finish. Drink now through 2016. 50 cases imported. – WS 91 points

Lowenstein’s 2007 Riesling Vom Blauen Schiefer is – as its name suggests – sourced from among the ancient terraces of Winningen and neighboring Kobern that are planted on blue Devonian slate. As usual, this displays more brightness and citrus – here lime and grapefruit – than Riesling from some of the other soils characteristic for this stretch of the Mosel. Suggestions of malt and nut oils lend richness and a saline, crustacean savor mingles with wet stone on the mineral side of the ledger, informing a long, both refreshing and intriguing finish. Enjoy this over the coming 5-7 years. – WA 89 points

Heymann-Lowenstein Riesling Qualitätswein Mosel Uhlen L Laubach 2006, $34.99/btl – Mosel, Germany – 100% Riesling – 12.5% abv – Focused, with a firm core of acidity and richness seeping in around the edges. Mint, apricot, spice and mineral flavors hold sway, staying balanced and long as this pushes to its conclusion. Chameleonlike, this changes and surprises. Drink now through 2022. – WS 94 points

The 2007 Winninger Uhlen Riesling Laubach (a.k.a. “L”) – grown on the same sort of soil as the Stolzenberg – features pineapple and kiwi suffused with crushed stone, almond extract, and the bitterness of fruit pits. Like the Blaufusser Lay, this unites creaminess and relative substantiality of alcoholic weight and extract with a sense of refinement and no heat or heaviness, although it fails to quite display the uncanny lift of that wine. The mineral sense here is more overtly of crushed stone rather than savory and saline, while the length in both fruit and mineral registers is formidable. It may well be worth following for a decade, and certainly for close to that long. – WA 91 points

Many believe that Riesling is the greatest of all white wine grapes. This Saturday we’ll explore the contrasts between four excellent examples of Riesling from two of Germany’s finest wine-growing estates, Heymann-Lowenstein and Georg Mosbacher.

Reinhard Lowenstein, whose family had, for generations been winegrowers, has become one of the most famous and iconoclast winemakers in Germany.  His wines are so sought after that he sells nearly 60% of his production to private customers in Germany, and the rest are highly allocated around the world.

Weingut Georg Mosbacher is considered to be “one of the best estates of the Palatinate region; it has made its way to the top by virtue of the distinctive quality of its wines and without the help of PR campaigns.” – Marco Polo Guide, The Best Wines of Germany

Heymann-Lowenstein Riesling Qualitätswein Mosel Uhlen L Laubach 2006, $34.99/btl – Mosel, Germany – 100% Riesling – 12.5% abv – Focused, with a firm core of acidity and richness seeping in around the edges. Mint, apricot, spice and mineral flavors hold sway, staying balanced and long as this pushes to its conclusion. Chameleonlike, this changes and surprises. Drink now through 2022. – WS 94 points

Heymann-Lowenstein Riesling Qualitätswein Mosel Von Blauem Schiefer 2006, $24.99/btl – Mosel, Germany – 100% Riesling – 13% abv – Light yet intense, with peach, pear, butter and mineral salt notes wrapped around a core of acidity. This is vivid and stays etched on the palate through the lingering finish. Drink now through 2016. 50 cases imported. – WS 91 points

Georg Mosbacher Riesling Kabinett Pfalz Forster 2007, $22.99/btl – Pfalz, Germany – 100% Riesling – 13% abv – Inviting, with spice-tinged peach, persimmon, orange and white pepper aromas and flavors. This comes together nicely and stays firm and focused from start to finish. Drink now through 2020. 100 cases imported. – WS 90 points

Georg Mosbacher Riesling Spätlese Trocken Pfalz Forster Musenhang 2007, $29.99/btl – Pfalz, Germany – 100 % Riesling – 10% abv – Ample in both flavor and texture. Rich and round, it’s permeated by nectarine, grapefruit and stone aromas and flavors that remain intense and long. Fine, dry, refreshing finish. Drink now through 2018. 10 cases imported. – WS 90 points

Thanks to everyone who stopped by on Saturday to help us welcome Cecile Tremblay to the store. It was a good opportunity to taste some really special wines from Burgundy. Keep checking in as we hope to have regular visits by our winemakers which means more great wines to try. For free.

As for this week, we have another special event scheduled for Saturday (details to come), so this week’s lineup applies to Monday thru Friday, and as always, 4-7 pm:

IMG_3031

Chateau Mourgues du Gres Costieres de Nimes Les Galtes Dores 2008, $14.99/btl – Rhone, France – 30% Grenache Blanc, 30% Roussanne, 30% Vermentino, 7% Marsanne,3% Clairette – 13% abv – The elegant white wine offering, the 2008 Les Galets Dores (nearly equal parts Grenache, Roussanne, Rolle, and tiny amounts of Marsanne and Clairette), offers notes of honeyed grapefruit and buttery citrus along with fresh acidity, medium body, plenty of flavor, and a dry, crisp finish. It should be drunk over the next year. – WA 88 points

Weingut Heymann-Lowenstein Riesling Schieferterrassen 2006, $19.99/btl – Mosel, Germany – 100% Riesling – There’s appealing flavors of peach, spice and slate, yet this seems a little slack, lacking the core of acidity to give all the components verve and snap. Drink now through 2012. 50 cases imported. – WS 88 points

Memo Sangiovese 2008, $10.99/btl – Tuscany, Italy – 100% Sangiovese – 13% abv – Strong ruby red color in the glass, with an intense and persistent nose. This fruity Tuscan wine has notes of cherries, prunes and vanilla. Medium bodied, slightly tannic, balanced and ready to drink. Cheap and cheerful!

Domaine La Bastide Syrah Les Genets Vieilles Vignes 2007, $12.99/btl – Languedoc, France – 100% Syrah – Medium-bodied, with dense red fruit flavors and tobacco leaf notes. There’s pepper and graphite on the finish. Drink now through 2012. 2,000 cases imported. – WS 86 points

Domaine de Ferrand Cotes du Rhone La Ferrande 2006, $21.99/btl – Rhone, France – 100% Syrah – 14% abv – As remarkable as 2007 is, there are 2006s that should not be forgotten. Domaine Ferrand (an excellent producer of Chateauneuf du Pape) has turned out a 100% Syrah cuvee, the 2006 Cotes du Rhone La Ferrand. Its opaque ruby/purple hue is followed by aromas of pepper, blackberries, licorice, incense, and earth. Dense and rich with surprising complexity and character for a southern Syrah, it should drink nicely for 2-3 years. – WA 90 points

Domaine la Berangeraie Les Caminoles Cahors Malbec 2007, $14.99/btl – Sudouest, France – 100% Malbec – 13% abv – In 1971 Andre Berenger came to Cahors from Provence with his wife Sylvie, who is originally from Champagne, and planted their vineyard near Grezels, on the red clay/iron stone soil known as Grezes. Their two children, Maurin and Juline not only joined them in the family business but so too have their respective spouses. Thus the three couples all work together and do everything in this twelve hectare domaine themselves – the pruning, the treatments of the all-organic vines and the harvesting all by hand (a disappearing practice in Cahors where harvesting is now done almost exclusively by machine). This is a lighter bodied Malbec from where the grape was originally grown. Malbec lovers should try this as a nice alternative to their standard powerhouses from Argentina.

We know, we know. We tend to oscillate a bit on our tasting policies, but with the upcoming holidays, we’ve gotten a bit anxious to try some new wines. That being said, we’ve changed the early week lineup. For the whites, we still are pouring Tement Temento Green 2008, George Reisling Rüdesheimer Berg Rottland Trocken 2007 and Bodegas Pedralonga Albariño 2007, but the reds have called in a few pinch hitters. The original tasting notes can be found in this post. As for the current red lineup, we’re still pouring the Jean-Michel Gerin Syrah Vin de Pays 2007, but the Chateau La Bastide Corbieres 2007 and Boeri Barbera d’Asti D.O.C. 2005 are on the DL (until we get more in on Monday). Taking their places are the following:

Domaine Les Grand Bois Côtes du Rhône Cuvée Les Trois Soeurs, Rhône, France – 65% Grenache, 15% Syrah, 20% Carignan, 14.5% abv – “The 2007 Cotes du Rhone Trois Soeurs is a blend of 65% Grenache and the rest Syrah and Carignan, one-third of which is aged in older barrels for four months, and two-thirds in tank. It hit 14.5% natural alcohol. A big, full-bodied style reveals delicious black currant and black cherry fruit along with hints of licorice, pepper, and spice box. This opulent Cotes du Rhone should drink nicely for 3-4 years.” – WA 90 points

Domaine Plouzeau Chinon Rouge Rive Gauche 2008, Loire, France – 100% Cabernet Franc, 12.5% abv – The nose has a stony minerality with some barnyard must, which quickly dissappears on the palate, when bright cherry notes end with a delicate softness. A family Domaine situated on the “rive gauche” of Chinon and around Ligré and la Roche-Clermault since 1846. Marc Plouzeau took over the estate in 1988 and in 1999 began the conversion to “agriculture biologique” and the vineyards are now all certified as such by ECOCERT. Low yields, predominantly hand- harvested at ideal physiological ripeness, and vinification directed towards emphasizing fruit and not extracting tannins. At our request, our shipments were bottled without filtration.

Daniel Bouland Morgon Vieilles Vignes 2008, Beaujolais, France – 100% Gamay, 13% abv – “The Bouland 2008 Morgon Vieilles Vignes exhibits a focus and grip rare in Beaujolais from this or for that matter any vintage. Concentrated, brightly fresh blackberry and blueberry tinged with salt, chalk, and citrus oil, and underlain by deep, smoky roast meatiness characterize this wine of palpable extract. While seamlessly, richly ripe and 13% in natural alcohol, it nevertheless comes off as lithe and lively, with a peony-like floral perfume wafting all the way through to a gloriously persistent, lip-smacking, soul-satisfying finish. Expect this cuvee (lightly fined but unfiltered, incidentally, an approach he first took at the behest of importer Peter Weygandt) to be worth following for close to a decade, perhaps even longer. This year, not just one wine but an entire family of Daniel Bouland’s as yet still little-known wines is coming to the U.S., and they should not be missed!” – WA 93 points

Domaine Vial-Magneres Tradition 4 Year Banyuls, Roussillon, France – 65% Grenache Noir, 15% Grenache Gris, 11% Grenache Blanc, 3% Syrah and 6% old-vine Carignan, 16.5% abv – This is a terrific fortified wine for those who are looking for an affordable port. With many of the same characteristics of a good tawny port, come in and try this Banyuls as a fun alternative for a digestif. A family property for three generations, the estate consists of 10 hectares of vines spread out in small parcels across the best plots of the appellation, the terraced vineyards are cultivated entirely by hand. All of their vines are grown along the coastline. The soils are made up of metamorphosed Cambrian rocks composed essentially of decaying chloric and sericitic schist. The vines are 40 to 50 years old on average; they amount to 60,000 plants, of which between 1,000 and 1,200 are renewed annually.

We decided to take a European tour this week. Austria to Germany, then Italy and Spain, with a couple of stops in France to end our trip. We will be offering the case price discount on single bottles of any of the wines we are tasting. That’s 15% off any of the bottles listed below. The lineup and tasting notes are as follows:

Tement Temento Green 2008, Styria, Austria – Sauvignon Blanc and Welschriesling, 11.5% abv – Regular Price $15.99, This Week $13.59 – “This delightfully fresh and aromatic
blend of our principal grape varieties, Welschriesling and Sauvignon Blanc, beguiles one this year with its asparagus notes, underpinned by our typically Styrian acidity. An ideal foil for hors d’oeuvres and other light dishes, or simply whenever you feel like it. “

George Reisling Rüdesheimer Berg Rottland Trocken 2007, Rheingau, Germany – 100% Reisling, 13% abv – Regular Price $21.99, This Week $18.69 – A classic, dry reisling from the Rheingau. For those who have the notion that all reislings are sweet, this is a good opportunity to taste the dry side of this beautiful grape.

Bodegas Pedralonga Albariño 2007, Rias Baixas, Spain – 100% Albariño, 13% abv, unfiltered – Regular Price $27.99, This Week $23.79 – A very full-bodied nose with notes of grapefruit, apple and floral hints. Structured and robust on the palate. Prominent minerality with lactic hints and slight, fruity acidity.

Boeri Barbera d’Asti D.O.C. 2005, Asti, Italy – 100% Barbera, 14% abv – Regular Price $18.99, This Week $15.99 – Martinette is the geographic name of one of Boeri’s best vineyards. This wine is typical of Barbera, soft but full bodied, ready to drink young, and it continues to develop with a few years of aging. Its versatility allows it to accompany a complete meal very well: appetizers of meat, full flavored first courses, rich second courses, and both fresh and seasoned cheeses. Refined 8 months in barrique and 8 months in bottle.

Chateau La Bastide Corbieres 2007, Languedoc, France – 80% Syrah, 20% Grenache – Regular Price $12.99, This Week $10.99 – “Durand’s 2007 Corbieres (bottled as “Chateau La Bastide,” a title legally afforded only to wines of appellation controlee status!) is an 80-20 Syrah-Grenache blend, half of which is aged in previously used barrels. Bright and juicy, saline and meaty, and with even more energy and sappy persistence than the other 2007 vintage Durand wines, this adds dimensions of stony, iodine-like minerality to its black pepper-tinged raw beef and blackberries to arrive at a wine far more complex and classy – not to mention lighter on its feet – than all but a handful of other wines in its appellation – and look at the price! Enjoy this unbelievable value over the next 2-3 years.

“Guilhem Durant’s La Bastide wines have long represented an excellent collection of wines at almost embarrassingly modest prices, but in vintage 2007, he simply out did himself with amazing abundance of value.” – WA 90 points

Jean-Michel Gerin Syrah Vin de Pays 2007, Rhone, France – 100% Syrah, 13% abv – Regular Price, $21.99, This Week $18.69 – Made from 100% Syrah grapes grown on high slopes in mica schist soil, this wine is drinking young (3-5 years) with cherry flavors, pepper and flexible tannins. Aged in barrels for 8 months

If you’ve followed this blog as closely as I have, you probably noticed the different format that we’re going to try on for size. Instead of a different group of wines each day, we’re going to give our customers a little bit more time to get a chance to come in a taste what we’re pouring. Unfortunately, not all of our patrons can pop in anytime they want, so we’re going to stretch our timeline for each wine we pour. In addition, we’re going to offer a 15% discount on any single bottle of wine from this list. All in all, we think it’s win(e)/win(e). Arghhh, sorry about that. Stop by this week and we promise we won’t make any (more) bad jokes…

Chateau Font-Mars Picpoul de Pinet 2008, Languedoc, France – 100% Picpoul de Pinet – “Font-Mars – with its coat of arms flanked by dinosaurs, an allusion to fossilized eggs found on the property – once again offers a distinctively delicious wine with their 2008 Coteaux du Languedoc Picpoul de Pinet, smelling of honeydew melon and passion fruit; refreshing, sappy, and stimulatingly bitter in its notes of green apple and melon rind, and guaranteed to improve the contents of any refrigerator over the next 6-9 months.” – WA 87 points

Domaine Albert Mann Riesling Cuvee Albert 2008, Alsace, France – 100% Riesling – Soft yellow stone fruit and firm acidity. A beautiful, nicely balanced Riesling.

“In the nearly two decades since this domaine was consolidated, the Barthelme brothers – Jacky and Maurice – have maintained their position near the forefront of Alsace viticulture, farming a range of relatively far-flung and outstanding vineyards, as well as offering excellent value virtually throughout their range. The Barthelmes are especially enthusiastic about their 2004s – and with good reason – wines whose honeyed richness and generosity of fruit sometimes make for vintage character more recognizable than that of the grape variety. The brothers believe that the strength of 2005 lies in nobly sweet wines (not all of which I have yet tasted). But when asked about what it was like to optimize these vintages, Maurice Barthelme gestured to his increasingly bald head! The brothers are very conscious of the need to promote ripeness while inhibiting sugar-retention and hard at work experimenting with ways (including certain bio-dynamic practices) they think might solve this arguably definitive wine growing dilemma of our time. (Inexplicably, Barthelmes did not sample me on their Riesling from the Rosenberg, and I apologize for having realized this omission too late to remedy it.) The Barthelme brothers have continued a serious passion for Pinot Noir, their parcels in the Hengst having been joined by a tiny plot of forty year old vines in Eguisheim’s Pfersigberg and one recent planting elsewhere. Wines from both of these new plots were promisingly concentrated and fresh-fruited in 2005, although somewhat over-burdened (at least at this early stage) by their respective loads of wood.” – The Wine Advocate

Domaine Duseigneur Antares 2007, Rhone, France – 60% Grenache, 20% Syrah, 20% Mourvedre – Domaine Duseigneur is the collaboration of three – the family Duseigneur (Frederic and Bernard), their oenologist, the greatly talented Philippe Cambie and Philippe Faure-Brac, Best Sommelier of the World 1992. Because of the family’s long tradition of respect of nature, the wines have always been cultivated following biodynamic principles. Yields are low, the grapes are harvested entirely by hand and the wine has been bottled unfiltered – a deposit may form; advised to carafe an hour.

Domaine Grand Nicolet Rasteau Villes Vignes 2007, Rhone, France – 80% Grenache (70 years old), 20% Syrah (50 years old) – “Chocolate, creme de cassis, graphite, and pen ink characteristics can be found in the inky/purple-colored 2007 Cotes du Rhone-Villages Rasteau Vieilles Vignes. Old vine Grenache dominates this full-bodied, powerful, tannic, brawny, muscular wine. Think of it as a nose tackle in professional football, it’s that big. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2020+.

“These fairly priced as well as exceptionally high quality efforts are made under the guidance of winemaking consultant Philippe Cambie, who has quickly brought Domaine Grand Nicolet to the top.” – WA 91-93 points

Domaine Constant-Duquesnoy Vinsobres 2007, Rhone, France – 65% Grenache, 35% Syrah – “Another terrific discovery in the southern Rhone, this blend of 65% Grenache and 35% Syrah from the cool-climate village of Vinsobres possesses an inky/ruby/purple color as well as black cherry, black currant, underbrush, forest floor, and crushed rock-like aromas and flavors. It is medium to full-bodied and pure with good acidity and a long finish. Enjoy it over the next 5-7 years.” – WA 90-92 points

Domaine du Vissoux Fleurie Poncie 2008, Beaujolais, Burgundy, France – 100% Gamay – “The Vissoux 2008 Fleurie Poncie offers palate-staining black fruits and serious grip, with iodine and peat, rose hip and cherry pit; and as usual for this site, salt and stone lending intriguing complexity. The sheer lip-smacking juiciness on display here can draw your attention from its complexity. Cellar it for at least 4-5 years.

“Pierre Chermette has successfully expanded from his base in southern Beaujolais without quality in any way suffering; on the contrary his mastery of the northern Beaujolais crus is now also a fait accompli. With the new generation coming on and with lots of new plans, following these wines – which, of course, includes in your own cellar – is going to continue to be exciting. Prices have crept upward, but given the quality – not to mention the labors needed to achieve it – one can hardly complain. Yields were very low in 2008, a condition, Chermette opines, for achieving genuine and complete ripeness. (Note that since Chermette’s label now features his name writ large and “Vissoux” in tiny letters, I have listed his wines accordingly.)” – WA 91 points

Lucas Pichler from the legendary Austrian house F.X. Pichler will be in the store between 2 and 5 pm today. We validate for parking in the lot right in front of Weygandt Wines, so really, there’s no excuse to skip this once in a lifetime opportunity.

Lucas Pichler was one of the numerous growers to describe the relatively low alcohol and efficacious acidity of his 2007s as “classic,” even though at this address in particular, one can hardly consider that statistically correct. The finished wines remind me a bit of the superb Pichler 1999s which were lushly, at times even extravagantly fruity (not to mention intensely mineral) while remaining refreshing and moderate in alcohol. F.X. Pichler compares the best of this year’s Rieslings with his 1997s, and certainly in terms of sheer quality it is hard to argue with that assessment. The Pichlers have never favored hedging or leaf pulling, and think that the consequence this year was to protect the embryonic bunches from the searing heat and sun of July and to enhance ripening in the long autumn. Of course, the flip side of this could be the trapping of water and promotion of botyrtis. And Lucas Pichler relates that to achieve excellent Federspiel, it was necessary to laboriously cut out botrytized and otherwise imperfect portions from a substantial share of the clusters. For Pichlers (in contrast with Alzingers) – 2007 was more difficult in terms of botrytis and selection – than 2006, especially with Gruner Veltliner. In both Federspiel and Smaragd categories, they held off on picking Riesling, with (to say the least!) demonstrable success. – The Wine Advocate

Lucas will be available to discuss all of his wines and the process behind them and we will be pouring tastes of the following:

F.X. Pichler Gruner Veltliner Federspiel Loibner Frauenweingarten 2007, Austria – 100% Gruner Veltliner – “Picked at the beginning of harvest, mid-September, the 2007 Gruner Veltliner Federspiel Frauenweingarten highlights green bean and snap pea. Juicy and melony, this finishes with crisp vegetable notes, lip-smacking refreshment, and hints of chalk and crushed stone. It will be best enjoyed within the next 12-18 months.” – WA 88 points

F.X. Pichler Gruner Veltliner Federspiel Loibner Klostersatz 2007, Austria – 100% Gruner Veltliner – “The 2007 Gruner Veltliner Federspiel Klostersatz smells of lentils and lemon zest. An excellent combination of concentrated lentil and snap pea flavors and underlying extract with delicacy and lift (at 12.5% alcohol) make an excellent case for the concept of Federspiel, and this finishes with pungent herbal and fruit skin pungency and a crushed stone mineral suggestion. It should perform well for at least 2-3 years.” – WA 89 points

F.X. Pichler Riesling Federspiel Urgestein Terrassen 2007, Austria – 100% Riesling – “The Pichler 2007 Riesling Federspiel Urgestein Terrassen a bottling formerly known as “Von den Terrassen” is beautifully-scented with linden flower, mint, and lime; is refined in texture, infectiously juicy, and citric on the palate; and finishes with a vibrant, sappy amalgam of citrus, herb, pepper, and salt. A significant share of contract fruit from the Loibenberg helps give this its pronounced minerality.” – WA 90 points

lucaspichler1On Saturday, October 24, 2009 we will have Lucas Pichler of  F.X. Pichler in our store for a wine tasting. We are thrilled to have this legendary producer as part of our portfolio and to bring these labors of love to Weygandt Wines for you to taste.

“It is not often that one can talk about the greatest producer in a given country (but Austria is small, so here one has an advantage). And while there are many great producers in Austria, none is more synonymous with great Austrian wine than F.X. Pichler. In fact, so riveting is its reputation that one author on Austrian wine who was prompted to list the 100 greatest producers in Austria, in order of greatness, lists F.X. Pichler as #1. When one tastes the wines, you’ll see why all the awe. They are truly monumental dry white wines–each with a mouth-filling presence, finish and complexity that leaves one speechless. His Riesling Smaragd Loibnerberg is the quintessence of rich, exotic multi-layered Riesling. His Grüner Smaragd Kellerberg and Grüner “M” are the most rich and complex expression of this unique varietal one can attain.” – Peter Weygandt

“…F.X. Pichler is the Chateau Latour, Domaine de la Romanée-Conti, Zind-Humbrecht, Sandrone and Helen Turley of the Wachau.” – Robert M. Parker, Jr. – The Wine Advocate, 2002.

lucaspichler3“Lucas Pichler was one of the numerous growers to describe the relatively low alcohol and efficacious acidity of his 2007s as “classic,” even though at this address in particular, one can hardly consider that statistically correct. The finished wines remind me a bit of the superb Pichler 1999s which were lushly, at times even extravagantly fruity (not to mention intensely mineral) while remaining refreshing and moderate in alcohol. F.X. Pichler compares the best of this year’s Rieslings with his 1997s, and certainly in terms of sheer quality it is hard to argue with that assessment. The Pichlers have never favored hedging or leaf pulling, and think that the consequence this year was to protect the embryonic bunches from the searing heat and sun of July and to enhance ripening in the long autumn. Of course, the flip side of this could be the trapping of water and promotion of botyrtis. And Lucas Pichler relates that to achieve excellent Federspiel, it was necessary to laboriously cut out botrytized and otherwise imperfect portions from a substantial share of the clusters. For Pichlers (in contrast with Alzingers)–2007 was more difficult in terms of botrytis and selection–than 2006, especially with Gruner Veltliner. In both Federspiel and Smaragd categories, they held off on picking Riesling, with (to say the least!) demonstrable success.”
– David Schildknecht – The Wine Advocate, Feb 2009

© 2012 Weygandt Wines Suffusion theme by Sayontan Sinha