Just two weeks ago, we were supposed to host Marc Cameron of Domaine Servin in the shop for a meet and greet and taste. However, due to certain forces of nature and circumstances beyond our control (read: blizzard), Marc had to cancel his visit and we subsequently canceled our tasting/sale. But the weather is not a deterrent for us. More snow, albeit just a sprinkling, is on the way, but we will march forward and carry out our original plans of having a Domaine Servin Tasting and Super Sale. Minus Marc Cameron.
Domaine Servin is one of the great Chablis makers in France. But don’t take our word for it, ask the guys who get paid to review wines:
By practicing a relatively strict centrifugal clarification of the must, Marc Cameron – the young Australian who is not only Servin’s commercial director, but also intimately involved along with Francois Servin in vinification – said he felt confident in giving his 2007s a slow elevage and working the lees. The best Servin wines indeed strike a deft balance between richness of texture on the one hand and vivacity and clarity on the other. Much of the excitement at this address takes place at village level, and not merely due to excellent price:quality rapport. The key factor is the Pargues vineyard – on a ridge between Montmains and Vosgros, and arguably (as well as historically) premier cru-worthy – which makes up more than half of this estate’s acreage and from which they essay multiple bottlings that reflect distinctive vinifications. The Pargues did not escape hail, but clearly the fruit utilized at Servin for the top bottlings from that site was sorted with sufficient rigor. While I am not sure into what perspective I should say that this experience puts present-day wines at any Chablis address, I cannot fail to note two old Servin wines tasted this April. Both were the last inch of bottles opened more than an hour earlier for a tasting circle. A 1947 Vaillons managed to evince lift and elegance, belying a reputed 15% alcohol. And a 1929 of uncertain terroir (“but probably Montmains,” said Servin) – re-corked once, and of which remnants remained thanks to The Crash that rendered this great vintage nearly un-sellable once it was bottled – expressed truly noble, nutty, Oloroso-like oxidation and haunting length. In light of wines like these, I can appreciate to some extent why Servin is fearless of fat in his wines. Still, my impression is that nobody makes wines like these in Chablis today. – David Schildknecht, The Wine Advocate
Francois Servin, along with his Australian brother-in-law Mark Cameron, direct the operations of this 30 ha domaine. Cameron’s succinct take on 2007 was simply that “it’s a vintage for connoisseurs.” Cameron, like several other domaines, also prepares an in-depth analysis and description of the vintage and I make frequent use of his observations to underscore certain key points. In particular, I was struck by the very first data point that he noted, explaining why April was one of the hottest ever recorded as there were 302 hours of sunshine in 2007 whereas 127 is the long-term average! The domaine began picking on September 10th under ideal conditions and took their time picking. Cameron noted that there was concern about the quality of the musts given the poor weather during the summer but much to his relief, the musts were of extremely high quality, going on to emphasize that “as long as you took care to protect your grapes and then a thorough sorting, it was possible after all to have some of the best quality musts we’ve seen in some time. As to the wines themselves, they’re grand classics and will most please seasoned lovers of classic Chablis or those who want to learn why Chablis is so esteemed by connoisseurs the world over. Those that prefer a rounder style of white would do better in general to stick with the very good to excellent 2006s.” I have to agree with Cameron’s characterization of the ’07s and ’06s as his description captures the style of the two vintages exactly. As I have reported in the past, Cameron has been an advocate for decreasing the amount of wood used and he has been successful in this regard as it is considerably less than in the past and this trend continued in 2007; for example, the Preuses was raised in 100% stainless for both 2006 and 2007. Lastly, there are no notes for the 2007 Forets or Blanchots as they were sold off due to what Cameron called “simply crazy prices. They paid us today as much as we could earn 2 years from now with none of the risks and work involved with the elevage, bottling and commercial processes. – Allen Meadows, Burghound
Over the course of the next month or so, we’ll run 45% sales on a number of our outstanding white wines, as we make room for some new vintages, so stay tuned for more great savings. In the meantime, the Lineup:
Domaine Servin Petit Chablis 2007, Sale $12.99/btl, Regularly $22.99 – Burgundy, France – 100% Chardonnay – 12.5% abv – The Servin 2007 Petit Chablis is striking in its expression of bitter-sweet floral and savory, saline, scallop-like mineral aromas I would ordinarily associate with a cru. Bright, saline, and persistently crustacean in inspiration on the palate, it falls down only in offering a slightly rustic texture, rough phenolics, and an obdurately stony finish. Still, this is impressive as far as it goes, and should prove highly versatile over the next several years. – WA 87 points
Domaine Servin Chablis Vieilles Vignes Selection Massale 2007, Sale $14.99/btl, Regularly $26.99 – Burgundy, France – 100% Chardonnay – 12.5% abv – As good as the Les Pargues is, this is even better with a more reticent and airier nose that is also classic Chablis with its layered green fruit, salt water and algae influences that can all be found on the intensely mineral laden medium plus weight flavors that culminate in a citrus and superbly precise finish. This is flat out terrific for a villages level wine and also recommended.” – BH 89-91 points
Domaine Servin Chablis 1er Cru Butteaux 2007, Sale $17.99/btl, Regularly $31.99 – Burgundy, France – 100% Chardonnay – 12.5% abv – A slightly riper nose combines both yellow and green fruit, sea shore and a hint of citrus that can also be found on the full-bodied and notably rich flavors that offer a beguiling texture as the copious dry extract really coats the mouth on the linear, punchy and mildly angular finish. My score assumes that it will fill out with a year or two in bottle as the underlying material should permit this without undue risk.” – BH 90 points
The Servin 2007 Chablis Butteaux – rendered entirely in tank, from fruit that was buried in other bottlings prior to vintage 2005 – offers another example of impressive concentration and expressive richness that might, however, prove to have been purchased at the price of subsequently problematic botrytis. There is a very penetrating but borderline volatile nose of citrus oil and pit fruit distillates, along with musk oil and decadent lilies; and a richly textured, peachy palate underlain by suggestions of honey. Here, though – in contrast with the Montee de Tonnerre and Vaillons bottlings – there are also chalky, saline, faintly sweaty mineral dimensions, and the impression of textural refinement persists through a finish that adeptly knits together the spirituous, honeyed, pungent, and mineral elements. This should deliver a lot of satisfaction for at least 3-4 years, but I would monitor it for signs of encroaching bitterness or volatility. – WA 90 points
Domaine Servin Chablis 1er Cru Montee de Tonnerre 2007, Sale $17.99/btl, Regularly $31.99 – Burgundy, France – 100% Chardonnay – 12.5% abv – A completely different nose of white flower, pear and subtle spice and sea breeze notes complements the intensely mineral, rich and very full-bodied flavors that possess excellent underlying energy on the sappy, textured and palate staining finish. This is not as complex at present as I believe that it will be in time so a bit of patience will be required.” – BH 91 points
Domaine Servin Chablis Grand Cru Preuses 2007, Sale $36.99/btl, Regularly $65.99 – Burgundy, France – 100% Chardonnay – 13% abv – A very subtle touch of wood frames beautifully elegant and refined lime, white peach and acacia blossom that slides gracefully into intense, harmonious and exceptionally pure medium plus bodied flavors that possess a strikingly silky mouth feel, all wrapped in a powerful and palate staining finish. This is one of those ‘wow’ wines, not because of any particular element but rather the completeness of the whole. – BH 92-94 points
Raised in tank like most of the estate’s premier crus, the Servin 2007 Chablis Preuses is both rich and exotic, with musk, brown spices, pit fruit preserves and spirits, and honey that together put me more in mind (though by no means unpleasantly so) of a late-harvested Alsace Riesling than of Chablis. Site-typical scallop-like, sweet and saline savor is present, but does not extend to the finish which – while impressively gripping – brings out the bitter side of candied citrus rind and an adamant suggestion of stone. Once again, here is a wine likely to deliver a lot of sheer sensual pleasure as well as fascination over the next few years, but I would not count on its longer-term evolution steering clear of bitter or fungal elements. I hope I’m wrong about that, but even if I’m not, fans of the exotic especially will relish this near-term. – WA 90 points
Domaine Servin Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos 2007, Sale $39.99/btl, Regularly $71.99 – Burgundy, France – 100% Chardonnay – 13% abv – Here the wood treatment is between the Preuses and the Bougros as it’s neither especially evident nor could you call it subtle as it sets off a layered and highly complex nose of white flower, pear and white peach that precedes the exceptional fresh broad-shouldered flavors that possess serious weight and punch on the gorgeously mineral-infused, precise and driving finish. This is clearly more soil-driven than the Bougros though not quite as big and powerful. A choice though neither possesses the sheer harmony of expression of the Les Preuses, though in fairness it’s possible that they may in time. – BH 91-93 points
The Servin 2007 Chablis Les Clos smells of candied grapefruit and tangerine rind and quince preserves wreathed in wood smoke. Powerful and rich, with its citrus oil and toasted oak components both emphasizing bitter-sweetness, this dense mouthful seems to pause mid-palate, mindful of its duty to shape up and fly straight as a representative of Les Clos. Site-typical chalkiness and fresh citrus take over and lead to a long, focused rather than serrated or bitter finish, and with the pronounced phenolics that all of this year’s Servin crus to some extent share contributing to a vibratory and invigorating sense of vinous energy that should carry this for at least a half dozen years in bottle. – WA 91 points
With our pallets of wines that arrived at the shop this week, we received quite a few new vintages from some of our old friends (like Denis Alary pictured above). . .