Claude and Isabel Fonquerle began farming Minervois La Liviniere in 2002, in partnership with oenologist Philippe Cambie of Chateauneuf du Pape. (They also have a sliver of acreage near one of their two facilities, in the St. Chinian appellation.) Nearly all of their vines are old and head pruned. Fruit is rigorously selected at picking, chilled overnight, and then sorted twice more by bunch and berry before crushing, and fermentative skin contact can run for one or two months! “While Chateauneuf remains the source of my orientation,” says Claude, “Burgundy is my inspiration. The purity of fruit and the minerality in those wines is something magical. Think of Henri Jayer!” I’ve heard that Burgundy line the world over, and I’m not sure to what extent I’d call these wines “Burgundian.” But purity of fruit and elements one can only describe as “mineral,” they surely display in abundance. It would be less misleading – and no exaggeration – to say that this team has already redefined the potential of Minervois, and bottled what are almost certainly the finest and most exciting wines ever grown in that appellation, not to mention their representing extraordinary values. This is not the same as saying “of that appellation,” incidentally, because not all L’Oustal Blanc wines follow the blends permitted or the protocol prescribed for Minervois. The Fonquerle’s mutual inspiration and admiration with horn player Jacques Adnet of the Paris Opera has resulted in the re-christening of their upper-level cuvees with names inspired by music. – David Schildknecht, The Wine Advocate
On Friday, March12, between 4 and 7 pm, and Saturday, March 13, between noon and 4 pm, we will open four very special bottles from Minervois, a small appellation bordering Carcassonne to the west, within the Languedoc region of France. Domaine L’Oustal Blanc consistently crafts 90+ point wines according to all of the top reviewers and we offer to you a sampling of their outstanding wines. As a young man, Claude Fonquerle worked on wines in Chateauneuf-du-Pape and the importance of the varietals from that legendary appellation remain the same in Minervois. In this equation, the combination of great terroir and a great winemaker equals great and unique wines. The Lineup:
Domaine L’Oustal Blanc Naick 6 Blanc 2006, SALE $29.74/btl, Regularly $34.99 – Minervois, France – 95% Grenache Gris, 5% Macabeo – 14% abv – This is pungently floral and zesty in the nose, like a mingling of oranges with some mysterious orchid. Peach kernel, toasted hickory, and wet stone add a faintly bitter and austere side to the palate, and a saline savor, fresh peach, chalk dust, and citrus make for a piquant, almost endlessly lip-smacking and thought-provoking finish no less remarkable, but far more refined and classically white wine-like than that of the 2007. These L’Oustal whites simply have to be tasted to be believed, and I suspect this will be worth following for at least half a dozen years. Along with Roland Velich’s (Moric) ancient vines Gruner Veltliner – and perhaps not coincidently given their striking similarities in terroir and method – Naick white counts as my greatest white wine revelation of the past couple of years. – WA 94 points
Domaine L’Oustal Blanc Minervois Giocoso 2006, SALE $25.49/btl, Regularly $29.99 – Minervois, France – 65% Grenache, 20% Syrah, 15% Carignan – 15% abv – The 2007 Minervois Giocoso – which I tasted assembled from tank – is 65% Grenache (raised in tank), with a balance of Syrah and Carignan (raised in barrique, half new), and incorporates fruit from outside of the La Liviniere sub-appellation. Black raspberry, blackberry, carob, gingerbread, and nutmeg in the nose set the theme for a richly ripe yet berry-tart palate of seductive spiciness and underlain by what it is hard not to imagine as something analogous to the schistic stone (rare for Minervois) and chalk on which these grapes grew. This shows a rare purity, lift, refinement, and vivacity you will seek virtually in vain anywhere in this appellation, and the finish is invigorating to the point of exhilaration. I expect it will reward at least 6-8 years of cellaring. – WA (92-93) points
Domaine L’Oustal Blanc Minervois La Liviniere Maestoso 2005, SALE $39.09/btl, Regularly $45.99 – Minervois, France – 34% Grenache, 33% Syrah, 33% Carignan – 14% abv – Very lush and spicy, with gobs of kirsch, dark plum and dark cherry flavors that are accented by concentrated chocolate mousse notes. The long finish features lots of creamy notes and plenty of silky tannins. Drink now through 2014. – WS 93 points
Domaine L’Oustal Blanc Minervois La Liviniere Prima Donna 2006, SALE $42.49/btl, Regularly $49.99 – Minervois, France – 50% Grenache, 40% Syrah, 10% Carignan – 15% abv – By now, predictably this is more restrained than its 2007 counterpart. But there are stony, humus-like, and meaty dimensions here worth pondering, along with rich black raspberry and cherry fruit that will pamper your palate. Certainly the remarkable polish and refinement of tannins that Fonquerle and Cambie have figured out how to achieve are every bit as evident as in the 2007, and, given the character of the ripening season, even more remarkable. – WA 92 points
