The Roussillon region has been described (by Hugh Johnson) as perhaps potentially the most impressive part of the Languedoc. The wines of young Jean Gardies confirm Mr. Johnson’s confidence. A few years ago he took over the family domaine and has gradually increased the amount of the production which he is releasing in bottle. There are “super cuvees” of Syrah pure (Les Falaises), Mourvedre (La Torre) and Grenache Vieilles Vignes (we can’t get these yet, because of private customer demand), which were considered the top wines produced in the Roussillon in vintage 2000 by the Revue du Vin de France. Yet even his cuvee Les Milleres, with no barrique aging, shows Gardies’ great gift for making structured, concentrated, yet elegant wines.
Today and Friday, along with Monday-Friday next week, we’ll pour 2 whites, 3 reds and one dessert to give you a good idea of the style and range of this tremendously talented winemaker/producer. (This Saturday, we’ll interupt this tasting for a brief trip to the Piedmont.) The Lineup:
Domaine Gardies Vin de Pays des Cotes Catalanes Mas Las Cabes 2008, $14.99/btl – Roussillon, France – 70% Muscat, 15% Macabeo, 15% Grenache Blanc – 13.5% abv – This has a fruity aroma, with bright flavors of peach, honeysuckle, beeswax and mineral notes. The lush finish is broad and spicy. Muscat, Grenache and Maccabeo. Drink now. 200 cases imported. – WS 87 points – WS 87 points
Domaine Gardies Cotes du Roussillon Les Glaciaires 2007, $19.99/btl – Roussillon, France – 40% Roussanne, 40% Grenache Blanc, 20% Macabeo – 13% abv – This rich, exotic white shows ripe tropical fruit flavors of mango and pineapple, with notes of baked peach. The finish is spicy, with plenty of firm acidity and a juicy freshness. Roussanne, Grenache Blanc and Macabeo. Drink now through 2012. 50 cases imported. – WS 88 points
From Roussanne, Grenache Blanc, and Macabeu vinified in year-old barrels, the Gardies 2007 Cotes du Roussillon Les Glaciaires smells of lime zest, peach, pungent, musky flowers, white pepper, resin, lanolin, and spicy oak. A saline and distinctly peppery, Roussanne-dominated palate leads to a bright finish, with a tactile impression of peach fuzz and pineapple tartness, and just a bit of heat and overt oakiness. Jean Gardies – whom I did not have a chance to visit with last December – farms his family’s holdings in the chalk-clay soils of Vingrau and the black schist Espira de l’Agly sector along the Agly just outside Perpignan. – WA 87 points
Domaine Gardies Cotes du Roussillon Mas Las Cabes Rouge 2008, $16.99/btl – Roussillon, France – 60% Syrah, 30% Grenache Noir, 10% Carignan – 13.5% abv
Domaine Gardies Cotes du Roussillon Villages Les Milleres 2007, $19.99/btl – Roussillon, France – 40% Grenache Noir, 35% Syrah, 20% Carignan, 5% Mourvedre – 13.5% abv – Full-bodied, with powerful dark fruit flavors, including kirsch, plum and dark cherry, followed by intense notes of cocoa powder and Asian spice on the muscular finish. Best from 2010 through 2013. 200 cases imported. – WS 90 points
A blend of Grenache, Syrah, and Carignan with a smidgeon of Mourvedre, Gardies’ 2007 Cotes du Roussillon Villages Les Milleres smells of lightly cooked red raspberry, grenadine, walnut husk, juniper, and subtly integrated vanilla and spice from the half of this cuvee that spends time in used barrels. With a vividly sappy concentration of tart red fruit, resin, and tar, with accents of cardamom and black pepper, this coats the palate and lingers with invigorating tartness and pungency, if also a trace of heat. I would not let its abundant, fine-grained tannin stand in the way of enjoying this wine over the next several years, particularly with red meats. A recent pair of additions to the Gardies line-up is labeled for the Mas Las Cabes property in the Espira de l’Agly. Jean Gardies – whom I did not have a chance to visit with last December – farms his family’s holdings in the chalk-clay soils of Vingrau and the black schist Espira de l’Agly sector along the Agly just outside Perpignan. – WA 89 points
Domaine Gardies Cotes du Roussillon Villages Tautavel Vieilles Vignes 2006, $29.99/btl – Roussillon, France – 70% Grenache Noire, 20% Syrah, 10% Carignan – 14% abv – This intense, powerful red from the south of France is filled with concentrated flavors of kirsch, dark chocolate and plum pudding. The rich finish of Christmas cake and mocha features plenty of grip. Drink now through 2014. 100 cases imported. – WS 91 points
Gardies’ 2006 Cotes du Roussillon Villages Vieilles Vignes Tautavel – a barrel-matured cuvee of Grenache with smaller amounts of Syrah, Carignan, and Mourvedre – offers a captivating and penetrating aroma of grilled meats, pungent cinnamon and nutmeg, cedar, ester-rich notes of kirsch, black pepper, and vanilla. Palpably dense, firm in texture, and suffused with fine-gained tannins, this nicely balances spice and resin with high-toned distilled cherry and purple plum, an underlying depth of bitter dark chocolate and chalk becoming more prominent in its long finish. I would anticipate it being worth cellaring for at least 5-6 years. Jean Gardies – whom I did not have a chance to visit with last December – farms his family’s holdings in the chalk-clay soils of Vingrau and the black schist Espira de l’Agly sector along the Agly just outside Perpignan. – WA 90 points
Domaine Gardies Muscat de Rivesaltes 2006 500ml, $24.99/btl – Roussillon, France – 100% Muscat – 15.5% abv – A zesty honeyed dessert wine from Rivesaltes.
