Many believe that Riesling is the greatest of all white wine grapes. This Saturday we’ll explore the contrasts between four excellent examples of Riesling from two of Germany’s finest wine-growing estates, Heymann-Lowenstein and Georg Mosbacher.
Reinhard Lowenstein, whose family had, for generations been winegrowers, has become one of the most famous and iconoclast winemakers in Germany. His wines are so sought after that he sells nearly 60% of his production to private customers in Germany, and the rest are highly allocated around the world.
Weingut Georg Mosbacher is considered to be “one of the best estates of the Palatinate region; it has made its way to the top by virtue of the distinctive quality of its wines and without the help of PR campaigns.” – Marco Polo Guide, The Best Wines of Germany
Heymann-Lowenstein Riesling Qualitätswein Mosel Uhlen L Laubach 2006, $34.99/btl – Mosel, Germany – 100% Riesling – 12.5% abv – Focused, with a firm core of acidity and richness seeping in around the edges. Mint, apricot, spice and mineral flavors hold sway, staying balanced and long as this pushes to its conclusion. Chameleonlike, this changes and surprises. Drink now through 2022. – WS 94 points
Heymann-Lowenstein Riesling Qualitätswein Mosel Von Blauem Schiefer 2006, $24.99/btl – Mosel, Germany – 100% Riesling – 13% abv – Light yet intense, with peach, pear, butter and mineral salt notes wrapped around a core of acidity. This is vivid and stays etched on the palate through the lingering finish. Drink now through 2016. 50 cases imported. – WS 91 points
Georg Mosbacher Riesling Kabinett Pfalz Forster 2007, $22.99/btl – Pfalz, Germany – 100% Riesling – 13% abv – Inviting, with spice-tinged peach, persimmon, orange and white pepper aromas and flavors. This comes together nicely and stays firm and focused from start to finish. Drink now through 2020. 100 cases imported. – WS 90 points
Georg Mosbacher Riesling Spätlese Trocken Pfalz Forster Musenhang 2007, $29.99/btl – Pfalz, Germany – 100 % Riesling – 10% abv – Ample in both flavor and texture. Rich and round, it’s permeated by nectarine, grapefruit and stone aromas and flavors that remain intense and long. Fine, dry, refreshing finish. Drink now through 2018. 10 cases imported. – WS 90 points
