On Friday, November 20, 2009, we will host a 2007 Burgundy Horizontal Tasting in our store. Check back for more information, but we are planning to open this event up to the public at 4 pm. The All-Star lineup is as follows:
Domaine Christian Serafin – “It seems fitting that the wines of Serafin – who trained as a carpenter – would be surrounded by new wood. For all of their intense fruit (heightened by a week’s pre-fermentative cold soaking), there is a certain stylistic stiffness which, taken together with the natural concentration and structure of the vintage, suggests one would do well to wait six or eight years before pulling any corks. Serafin – who likens them to more concentrated, corseted cousins of his 1999s – does not demur. He also seemed happy to note that he had managed to keep this year’s collection under 14% alcohol.” – The Wine Advocate
Domaine Remi Jobard – Remi Jobard is the “intelligent and dynamic son of Charles Jobard,” the brother of Francois, and this domaine, now being run by Remi “is truly a family run operation, with Remi’s mother doing all the bottling by hand”… that is indeed an “up-and-coming estate”. With the scores in the low 90s from The Wine Advocate, and up to 94 points in The Wine Spectator, and rave reviews in the French press, the secret is now definitely out on Remi Jobard. And why not, when he makes such delicious expressions from such great Meursault parcels that too often these days are not always producing the exciting wines that can potentially be made? In fact, when one starts tasting through his offerings, it is amazing just how great his Bourgogne is—it tastes like a really excellent Meursault. Then he makes three sensational and unique Meursaults from three different lieu dits: the Sous la Velle is rich, plump, and long with lovely balance; the En Luraule (a parcel adjoining Premier Cru Goutte D’Or and resembles that Cru)—very rich and golden buttery (thus Goutte D’Or)—while the Chevalieres from 55+ year old vines is very structured, firm, and complex, benefiting from extra time in bottle.
The three Premier Crus are also exceptional for their expressiveness, but add to this their weight and character. The Poruzots is the most opulent and forward, with a real wallop of unctuous, juicy Meursault fruit. The parcel they own is situated at the top, adjoining Genevrieres. The Genevrieres parcel of Jobard is very old vines and here Jobard makes his most minerally, terroir-filled Meursault; but never at the expense of richness and depth. Finally, the Charmes, presents a culmination, it seems, a synthesis of all the strong points of all his other wines in a package of near pure perfection. To capture all of the texture and nuance Remi now also bottles all of his wines without filtration sixteen months after vintage. There is no telling how great his domaine can become. – Le Classement 1999 Revue du Vin de France
“Less known than that of his brother Francois, the domaine of Charles Jobard, situated on the same terroirs, has seen during the last two years a formidable progression thanks to the new generation. Whereas before the wines tended to lack fatness and purity, they have regained, particularly in 1994 (put into commercialization in 1996) the allure which one expects in a great Meursault – with noble aromas of honey, citrus and nuts, as well as imposing body. An address to be followed.” – Pierre Rovani, The Wine Advocate
Domaine Dugat-Py – “In the top echelon of the world’s finest Pinot Noir producers.” – Pierre Rovani, The Wine Advocate, Issue III
“No offense to Peter Weygandt, this estate’s importer, but can anyone think of an easier job than having to sell Bernard Dugat’s wines? For the past decade, this 7.5 hectare (18.53 acre) domaine has consistently produced exceptional wines, a testimony to the relentless pursuit of quality exhibited by Dugat, his wife, and children. “Yes, it’s true that we live in the vineyards, working from morning to night, but the primary reasons we don’t have the same problems as many others in Burgundy is that we concentrate on having low yields and are fortunate enough to have old vines,” sais Bernard Dugat.” – The Wine Advocate
Along with The Domaine Leroy, Bernard Dugat makes the most vin de garde Pinot Noir in the world. It is truly a mistake to drink his Villages wines, on up through the Crus, before they have been in bottle five years after the vintage (the Bourgogne, maybe three). He and his charming wife, Jocelyne Py, thus Domaine Dugat-Py, work extremely hard in the vines (theirs are some of the most beautifully tended in all of Burgundy), cutting them back in order to lower yields and extract more from the soil. Bernard’s wines are so intense because they are so concentrated from the juice that goes into the wine. That Bernard is a genius in vinifying Pinot Noir doesn’t hurt either.
The Dugats live on the tiny Rue Planteligone, at the top of the village of Gevrey, not far from the church. (Their cave is cellar of a monastery dating back to the 11th century – before the crusades.) Just outside their back door are 50 year old vines that make the heart of the cuvee Coeur du Roi (if you will pardon the pun). Another third of this cuvee is from 90+ year old vines in a parcel called Combe Dessous, lying just below the Premier Cru Combes aux Moines. In 1997 and 1998 there was so little Premier Cru Petite Chapelle that Bernard could not make a barrel, so it too went into 1er Cru (as did the Clos Fonteny). It’s a big wine. So is the Lavaux St. Jacques, but it exists in such miniscule quantities as to be almost cruel. The Charmes vines are well situated across the path from Chambertin, and the charming quality of Charmes balances the super-masculine quality present in all of Bernard’s wines. A beauty. The vines in the Mazi parcel, are over 55 years of age. Mazi makes one of the most full-bodied of all the Grand Crus, and this has that quality, but also a marvelous character of ripe wild blueberries, spice, and forest-floor scents that makes it inimitable. Bernard has recently added a tiny parcel of Chambertin to complete his repertoire. A review of the 1998s can be found in Issue 129 of The Wine Advocate on page 36.
“This small artisan domaine has hoisted itself in the course of a few years to the very summit of the Burgundy hierarchy. All those who have had the good fortune to taste the sumptuous 1993′s and astonishing 1994′s, and the fabulous 1995′s and 1996′s know that this property has become without a doubt the most fascinating one in its commune. His simple cuvee Gevrey Chambertin Vieilles Vignes Coeur de Roi surpasses in intensity of matter and in the sensuality of its texture most Grands Crus (of other domaines). As to his other wines, one needs to drink them to believe them. Such profundity of color, such majesty of manner are only explained by exceptional grapes produced by the family’s fastidious selection of Pinot Noirs that would make technicians who had scorned them blush with shame. The very small volume produced as well as the still extremely reasonable prices, however, prohibits the domaine from taking on new customers. One needs to take one’s chance with a hopefully more abundant future vintage.” – Le Classement, 2000 Revue du Vin de France
“We were so dazzled by the last vintages of this domaine that we have accorded the third star more quickly than we are accustomed to do. How can one pass in silence by these wines, amongst the most sublime of our epoch, vinified in this small cellar by a vigneron in a class by himself, who comports himself modestly and is marvelously seconded by his wife. This type of Burgundy we have longed for over the last two exasperating decades of the 70’s and 80’s where for the most part the great vineyards had lost their sense of honor. These dream wines, Bernard Dugat has vinified for us all, in quantities incredibly miniscule but in sufficient amounts to leave their grand mark behind them. Their robe is indescribable; of a blue-black that resembles the great Hermitages; the amplitude of their flesh, their fabulous velvetiness of texture, recall wines from the legendary vintages of 1945, 1947 or 1959 without any of the defects of those vintages. Never in the past thirty years have we found an expression of terroirs of Gevrey so powerful, unless perhaps Chez Leroy which by chance is supplied regularly by Dugat. To arrive at this result, Bernard Dugat puts all of his efforts in the working of his vines, and those who would wish to one day equal him would do well to cast an eye over his vines, especially in the month of August when the grapes profit most from the sun”. – Le Classement, 2000 Revue du Vin de France
“This small artisan domaine has hoisted itself in the course of a few years to the very summit of the Burgundy hierarchy. All those who have had the good fortune to taste the sumptuous 1993’s and astonishing 1994’s, and the fabulous 1995’s and 1996’s know that this property has become without a doubt the most fascinating one in its commune. His simple cuvee Gevrey Chambertin Vieilles Vignes Coeur de Roi surpasses in intensity of matter and in the sensuality of its texture most Grands Crus (of other domaines). As to his other wines, one needs to drink them to believe them. Such profundity of color, such majesty of manner are only explained by exceptional grapes produced by the family’s fastidious selection of Pinot Noirs that would make technicians who had scorned them blush with shame. The very small volume produced as well as the still extremely reasonable prices, however, prohibits the domaine from taking on new customers. One needs to take one’s chance with a hopefully more abundant future vintage.” – Le Classement, 1999 Revue du Vin de France
Domaine du Clos des Lambrays – The Clos des Lambrays produced legendary wines in the 40’s. After its purchase in ’79 (elevation to Grand Cru status In 1981), the new owners, Saiers, did some replanting, but it was only about one-third of the vines, not the general replanting that some journalists have stated. Fully two-thirds on the vines are old, most in excess of 60 years.
What did happen in the late ‘80’s is that Saiers apparently chose to allow yields to increase, but they suffered the consequences of that approach in quality and they were forced to sell the domaine. While it was for sale, the court turned over all phases of growing and winemaking to the regisseur, Thierry Brouin. Under his impeccable guidance the transformation in quality has been sensational. The new owners, Freund, have retained Thierry.
The ’96 is deep, (yields of 28 hl/ha.) very (for want of a better word) masculine, wine. It is not easy now, but shows enormous potential, and the tannins are quite round and integrated. The 1997 is a marvel of seductive perfume and richness. In 1998 the Clos des Lambrays produced one of the great wines of the Cote D’Or, rated 91 to 94 points potential by Steven Tanzer in the International Wine Cellar. The 1999 looks to be every bit as promising with the delightful deep rich color and flavors that typify this vintage in the best domaines of Burgundy.
In the words of Michel Bettane, the Clos des Lambrays is an extraordinary terroir, capable of giving wines that, in generosity of savour and length rival the greatest. It is, as Brouin pointed out to me, and shows on the palate, the most “Morey” of all the Grand Crus of that appellation—the terroir really comes through.
In the vinification, too, Brouin captures this—a long fermentation, no de-stemming, and 50% new allier oak. The wines are unfined, only the last sixth of each barrel is then lightly filtered (the rest are unfiltered), and starting with ’94 our selection, completely unfined and unfiltered. In 1998, only about 65% of the production of the Clos des Lambrays went into the cuvee of Clos Grand Cru, the rest was sold as Morey Premier Cru—also a fantastic wine – evidencing the domaine’s commitment to utmost quality. Clos des Lambrays is back.
“The domaine has just changed owners but Thierry Brouin, the energetic director of the property stays on. The Clos des Lambrays is one of the best exposed and most individualized terroir of the Cotes de Nuits, capable of making wines with the power of Chambertin but with even more mellowness. In the complex bouquet developed with age by the wine, one easily recognizes an astonishing smoky note resembling that of the very young and astonishing Clos Jus a Givry or one of the best Graves de Pessac in Bordeaux. The next vintages should surpass even the excellent 1990 and 1995, indeed the selection process for the great wine will be even more severe. The domaine also produces a marvelous Puligny-Montrachet, Les Caillerets, in a style a little more oaked than that of Hubert de Montille.” – Le Classement, 1999 Revue du Vin de France
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