Ahhhh, sunshine. It’s always a good thing to look outside and see something other than gray skies and black snow. As many of our regulars have noticed and taken full advantage of, we’ve been trying to clear some space by way of our Winter Clearance Sale. While that is pretty much over, save for some tremendous wines from the Mosel, the sale did serve its intended purpose. So with our doors wide open and our moods lifted, we introduce four new wines to the shop. The two Chardonnays are a refreshing change from what many have come to expect from this noble grape and we would especially like to encourage all who have written off this varietal because of bad experiences with the domestic breed. The Chianti is about as good as this region gets. If you’ve never tasted a wine from Chinon, there is no better example than this Cabernet Franc. And if you have, be prepared for a mini-explosion in your mind. The Lineup:

Domaine de La Chapelle Saint Veran Madame Noly 2008, $25.99/btl – Burgundy, France – 100% Chardonnay – 13% abv – Very juicy, with a supple texture framing apricot, orange and mineral notes, which are more up front than on the back end, though this does linger.

Domaine du Vissoux Beaujolais Blanc Cepage Chardonnay 2008, $21.99/btl – Beaujolais, France – 100% Chardonnay – 12.5% abv – High-toned, ester-rich citrus and distilled pit fruit aromas; piquant nuttiness; and a soft, oily texture characterize Chermette’s 2008 Beaujolais Blanc. A lactic note jars with the juiciness of citrus in the finish, but there is a satisfying underlying chalkiness as well as excellent sheer length.

L’Arco Chianti 2007, $13.99/btl – Tuscany, Italy – 100% Sangiovese – 13.5% abv – With a bright ruby-garnet cast, this Chianti displays a spicy red currant and tobacco nose, plenty of zip and drive, abundant fruit, and a tonic acidity on the finish. A great pairing with pizza or pasta with red sauce.

Beatrice et Pascal Lambert Chinon Les Perruches 2006, $22.99/btl – Loire, France – 100% Cabernet Franc – 13.5% abv – Rock-solid, with a briary undertow carrying the macerated plum and cherry fruit, all followed by sweet tapenade and aged tobacco notes on the long finish. Even better than the 2005. Drink now through 2011. 200 cases imported. – WS 90 points

What to taste, what to taste? Here at the shop, we often hear the question, “How do you decide which wines to use for your tastings?” And like many questions , there are many right answers (unless you’re a mathematician). Some of the wines we choose are new to the shop, so we want to try them out ourselves. Some have been requested by our regulars (yes, we do listen). Some have been collecting dust because we have been neglectful. And others just seem right at the time. Whatever the reason, we try and open new wines every week, and this week is no exception. The Lineup:

Tement Sauvignon Blanc Grassnitzberg 2007, $39.99/btl – Styria, Austria – 100% Sauvignon Blanc – 13% abv – Fermented in tank and matured in larger barrels, Tement’s 2007 Sauvignon Blanc Grassnitzberg is cooling and minty in personality yet with a glossy texture and lovely cling. Another year in bottle may bring more complexity, but this very proportional and refreshing Sauvignon should be worth following for 2-3 years. – WA 87 points

Chateau Mourgues du Gres Vin de Pays du Gard Blanc Terre d’Argence 2007, $15.99/btl – Rhone, France – 50% Viognier, 50% Roussanne – A blend of equal parts Viognier and Roussanne, a small percentage fermented in new wood, the very good 2007 Terre d’Argence blanc is surprisingly restrained compared to the Galets Dores. It offers abundant amounts of white currant, honeysuckle, and apricot notes in a medium-bodied, dry, refreshing style. – WA 87 points

Chateau Pont de Brion Graves Rouge 2005, $20.99/btl – Bordeaux, France – 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 35% Merlot, 5% Petit Verdot – 12% abv – Classic Left Bank Bordeaux from a classic vintage. Dark fruit and cedar with a long, balanced finish.

Clos Marie Coteaux du Languedoc L’Olivette Pic Saint Loup 2008, $26.99/btl – Languedoc, France – Grenache, Syrah, Cinsault – 13.5% abv – Displaying aromas not only of ripe black fruits but of spiced apple cider such as one would more expect in a white wine, and a soothingly-textured and fruit-forward palate, this also hints at the sort of saline, iodine, and stony mineral dimensions that help make Clos Marie’s wines so fascinating as a group.

On Thursday, February 25, we will close our store at 6:45 pm, so that we can set up for a charity event. We apologize for any inconvenience. We will resume our normal business hours on Friday.

Please excuse us as we catch our collective breaths after a very busy last week that included snow removal, a 45% off sale, a second visit and tasting from our cheesemaking friends at Firefly Farms, a meet and greet with Peter Martin of Martin & Keegan Tours and a stirring USA victory over Canada in ice hockey. While the last bit might not have anything to do with what happens in our shop, it does let you know we do something other than pour, drink and talk about wine…we watch TV. Even though it wasn’t in HD. Just saying. We hope that this week will return to business as usual, starting with a tasting of  six very unique bottles of wine, two of which are almost 50% off the regular retail price. The Lineup:

Domaine Remi Jobard Bourgogne Blanc 2006, SALE $18.14/btl, Regularly $32.99 – Burgundy, France – 100% Chardonnay – 13% abv – The 2006 Bourgogne (which receives essentially the same upbringing as his Meursault) offers aromas of orange blossom, honeysuckle, lemon oil, and toasted nuts. Grapefruit, lemon, orange, and nuts make for a bright and piquant palate, but with a sense of textural richness and chalky buffering acting as a foil to the penetrating citricity. This well-concentrated Bourgogne should be worth following for several years. Remi Jobard began harvesting September 25 – two days later than even Francois and Antoine Jobard – yet the two collections are dramatically different. These wines – which display uniformly prominent acidity – came out of barrel (generally 12-15% new) after a year, and were then given six months in tank (whence I tasted them) to permit stabilization and some evolution and, in Jobard’s words, “to preserve aromatic freshness and vivacity.” There are hints of botrytis here and there, but Jobard insists it was at a level of around 5%, in his opinion obviating any need to remove it. – WA (87-88) points

Domaine Schoffit Pinot Gris Colmar Tradition 2007, $24.99/btl – Alsace, France – 100% Pinot Gris – 13.8% abv – This inviting Pinot Gris has a lively golden hue and an open-knit texture. The round mouthfeel holds flavors of Gala apple and apricot, underscored by a light smoky minerality. Delicious. Drink now through 2012. 50 cases imported. – WS 89 points

Tement Gelber Muskateller Steirische Klassik 2006, $22.99/btl – Styria, Austria – 100% Muscat – 11.5% abv – Tement’s expansion has not stopped at the Slovenian border, and in 2006 he acquired the neighboring holdings of the Carmelites – where his father long worked as winemaker – and since replanted their 90 year old patchwork of vine varieties to insure more Zieregg Sauvignon for the future. Tement has begun using glass stoppers on his wines in lieu of corks. Given the extent of his offerings and given that I travel to Styria only every other year, I cannot pretend to have tasted Tement’s entire 2005 and 2006 collections, but only the subset (perhaps half) that he chose to show me in the time we had available. Tement is modifying his approach with Sauvignon – especially in the top sites – having decided that lower yields and the consequent ability to harvest somewhat earlier are more advantageous (not to mention less risky) than the long hang time he has traditionally practiced with this variety.

Domaine Bertagna Bourgogne Les Croix Blanches 2006, $22.99/btl – Burgundy, France – 100% Pinot Noir – 13% abv – Sweet spice notes add interest to the tart cherry flavor in this red. Firm but fresh, with a lingering finish. Drink now. 175 cases imported.

Vial-Magneres Collioure Les Espades 2007, $27.99/btl – Roussillon, France – Cuvee Les Esperades is a dry red wine, warm and potent, which should be saved for roasts and game but goes well with flavourful Mediterranean fish too.

Domaine Gardies Cotes du Roussillon Villages La Torre 2006, SALE $27.49, Regularly $49.99 – Roussillon, France – 70% Mourvedre, 20% Grenache, 10% Carignan – Luscious, rich and ripe, with concentrated flavors of dark plum, blackberry and kirsch that are supported by fine-grained tannins and powerful structure. The long finish is filled with dark chocolate and mocha. 20 cases imported. – WS 93 points

Just two weeks ago, we were supposed to host Marc Cameron of Domaine Servin in the shop for a meet and greet and taste. However, due to certain forces of nature and circumstances beyond our control (read: blizzard), Marc had to cancel his visit and we subsequently canceled our tasting/sale. But the weather is not a deterrent for us. More snow, albeit just a sprinkling, is on the way, but we will march forward and carry out our original plans of having a Domaine Servin Tasting and Super Sale. Minus Marc Cameron.

Domaine Servin is one of the great Chablis makers in France. But don’t take our word for it, ask the guys who get paid to review wines:

By practicing a relatively strict centrifugal clarification of the must, Marc Cameron – the young Australian who is not only Servin’s commercial director, but also intimately involved along with Francois Servin in vinification – said he felt confident in giving his 2007s a slow elevage and working the lees. The best Servin wines indeed strike a deft balance between richness of texture on the one hand and vivacity and clarity on the other.  Much of the excitement at this address takes place at village level, and not merely due to excellent price:quality rapport. The key factor is the Pargues vineyard – on a ridge between Montmains and Vosgros, and arguably (as well as historically) premier cru-worthy – which makes up more than half of this estate’s acreage and from which they essay multiple bottlings that reflect distinctive vinifications. The Pargues did not escape hail, but clearly the fruit utilized at Servin for the top bottlings from that site was sorted with sufficient rigor. While I am not sure into what perspective I should say that this experience puts present-day wines at any Chablis address, I cannot fail to note two old Servin wines tasted this April. Both were the last inch of bottles opened more than an hour earlier for a tasting circle. A 1947 Vaillons managed to evince lift and elegance, belying a reputed 15% alcohol. And a 1929 of uncertain terroir (“but probably Montmains,” said Servin) – re-corked once, and of which remnants remained thanks to The Crash that rendered this great vintage nearly un-sellable once it was bottled – expressed truly noble, nutty, Oloroso-like oxidation and haunting length. In light of wines like these, I can appreciate to some extent why Servin is fearless of fat in his wines. Still, my impression is that nobody makes wines like these in Chablis today. – David Schildknecht, The Wine Advocate

Francois Servin, along with his Australian brother-in-law Mark Cameron, direct the operations of this 30 ha domaine. Cameron’s succinct take on 2007 was simply that “it’s a vintage for connoisseurs.” Cameron, like several other domaines, also prepares an in-depth analysis and description of the vintage and I make frequent use of his observations to underscore certain key points. In particular, I was struck by the very first data point that he noted, explaining why April was one of the hottest ever recorded as there were 302 hours of sunshine in 2007 whereas 127 is the long-term average! The domaine began picking on September 10th under ideal conditions and took their time picking. Cameron noted that there was concern about the quality of the musts given the poor weather during the summer but much to his relief, the musts were of extremely high quality, going on to emphasize that “as long as you took care to protect your grapes and then a thorough sorting, it was possible after all to have some of the best quality musts we’ve seen in some time. As to the wines themselves, they’re grand classics and will most please seasoned lovers of classic Chablis or those who want to learn why Chablis is so esteemed by connoisseurs the world over. Those that prefer a rounder style of white would do better in general to stick with the very good to excellent 2006s.” I have to agree with Cameron’s characterization of the ’07s and ’06s as his description captures the style of the two vintages exactly. As I have reported in the past, Cameron has been an advocate for decreasing the amount of wood used and he has been successful in this regard as it is considerably less than in the past and this trend continued in 2007; for example, the Preuses was raised in 100% stainless for both 2006 and 2007. Lastly, there are no notes for the 2007 Forets or Blanchots as they were sold off due to what Cameron called “simply crazy prices. They paid us today as much as we could earn 2 years from now with none of the risks and work involved with the elevage, bottling and commercial processes. – Allen Meadows, Burghound

Over the course of the next month or so, we’ll run 45% sales on a number of our outstanding white wines, as we make room for some new vintages, so stay tuned for more great savings. In the meantime, the Lineup:

Domaine Servin Petit Chablis 2007, Sale $12.99/btl, Regularly $22.99 – Burgundy, France – 100% Chardonnay – 12.5% abv – The Servin 2007 Petit Chablis is striking in its expression of bitter-sweet floral and savory, saline, scallop-like mineral aromas I would ordinarily associate with a cru. Bright, saline, and persistently crustacean in inspiration on the palate, it falls down only in offering a slightly rustic texture, rough phenolics, and an obdurately stony finish. Still, this is impressive as far as it goes, and should prove highly versatile over the next several years. – WA 87 points

Domaine Servin Chablis Vieilles Vignes Selection Massale 2007, Sale $14.99/btl, Regularly $26.99 – Burgundy, France – 100% Chardonnay – 12.5% abv – As good as the Les Pargues is, this is even better with a more reticent and airier nose that is also classic Chablis with its layered green fruit, salt water and algae influences that can all be found on the intensely mineral laden medium plus weight flavors that culminate in a citrus and superbly precise finish. This is flat out terrific for a villages level wine and also recommended.” – BH 89-91 points

Domaine Servin Chablis 1er Cru Butteaux 2007, Sale $17.99/btl, Regularly $31.99 – Burgundy, France – 100% Chardonnay – 12.5% abv – A slightly riper nose combines both yellow and green fruit, sea shore and a hint of citrus that can also be found on the full-bodied and notably rich flavors that offer a beguiling texture as the copious dry extract really coats the mouth on the linear, punchy and mildly angular finish. My score assumes that it will fill out with a year or two in bottle as the underlying material should permit this without undue risk.” – BH 90 points

The Servin 2007 Chablis Butteaux – rendered entirely in tank, from fruit that was buried in other bottlings prior to vintage 2005 – offers another example of impressive concentration and expressive richness that might, however, prove to have been purchased at the price of subsequently problematic botrytis. There is a very penetrating but borderline volatile nose of citrus oil and pit fruit distillates, along with musk oil and decadent lilies; and a richly textured, peachy palate underlain by suggestions of honey. Here, though – in contrast with the Montee de Tonnerre and Vaillons bottlings – there are also chalky, saline, faintly sweaty mineral dimensions, and the impression of textural refinement persists through a finish that adeptly knits together the spirituous, honeyed, pungent, and mineral elements. This should deliver a lot of satisfaction for at least 3-4 years, but I would monitor it for signs of encroaching bitterness or volatility. – WA 90 points

Domaine Servin Chablis 1er Cru Montee de Tonnerre 2007, Sale $17.99/btl, Regularly $31.99 – Burgundy, France – 100% Chardonnay – 12.5% abv – A completely different nose of white flower, pear and subtle spice and sea breeze notes complements the intensely mineral, rich and very full-bodied flavors that possess excellent underlying energy on the sappy, textured and palate staining finish. This is not as complex at present as I believe that it will be in time so a bit of patience will be required.” – BH 91 points

Domaine Servin Chablis Grand Cru Preuses 2007, Sale $36.99/btl, Regularly $65.99 – Burgundy, France – 100% Chardonnay – 13% abv – A very subtle touch of wood frames beautifully elegant and refined lime, white peach and acacia blossom that slides gracefully into intense, harmonious and exceptionally pure medium plus bodied flavors that possess a strikingly silky mouth feel, all wrapped in a powerful and palate staining finish. This is one of those ‘wow’ wines, not because of any particular element but rather the completeness of the whole. – BH 92-94 points

Raised in tank like most of the estate’s premier crus, the Servin 2007 Chablis Preuses is both rich and exotic, with musk, brown spices, pit fruit preserves and spirits, and honey that together put me more in mind (though by no means unpleasantly so) of a late-harvested Alsace Riesling than of Chablis. Site-typical scallop-like, sweet and saline savor is present, but does not extend to the finish which – while impressively gripping – brings out the bitter side of candied citrus rind and an adamant suggestion of stone. Once again, here is a wine likely to deliver a lot of sheer sensual pleasure as well as fascination over the next few years, but I would not count on its longer-term evolution steering clear of bitter or fungal elements. I hope I’m wrong about that, but even if I’m not, fans of the exotic especially will relish this near-term. – WA 90 points

Domaine Servin Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos 2007, Sale $39.99/btl, Regularly $71.99 – Burgundy, France – 100% Chardonnay – 13% abv – Here the wood treatment is between the Preuses and the Bougros as it’s neither especially evident nor could you call it subtle as it sets off a layered and highly complex nose of white flower, pear and white peach that precedes the exceptional fresh broad-shouldered flavors that possess serious weight and punch on the gorgeously mineral-infused, precise and driving finish. This is clearly more soil-driven than the Bougros though not quite as big and powerful. A choice though neither possesses the sheer harmony of expression of the Les Preuses, though in fairness it’s possible that they may in time. – BH 91-93 points

The Servin 2007 Chablis Les Clos smells of candied grapefruit and tangerine rind and quince preserves wreathed in wood smoke. Powerful and rich, with its citrus oil and toasted oak components both emphasizing bitter-sweetness, this dense mouthful seems to pause mid-palate, mindful of its duty to shape up and fly straight as a representative of Les Clos. Site-typical chalkiness and fresh citrus take over and lead to a long, focused rather than serrated or bitter finish, and with the pronounced phenolics that all of this year’s Servin crus to some extent share contributing to a vibratory and invigorating sense of vinous energy that should carry this for at least a half dozen years in bottle. – WA 91 points

We, here at the shop, have had just about enough of this white-powdery-turned-black-icy-roadblock-stuff. Supposedly, we have but one more little storm left tomorrow night, and that may mark the end of what one of our outstanding customers called thundersnowpocalypse fluricane precipageddon 2010. Whatever the case, we’ve got a business to run because we know that regardless of what Mother Nature decides to use us as, most of us need some something to warm our spirits.

On Saturday, February 13, between noon and 5 pm, Bailey Kasten from Double Premium Confections will be in the shop to offer tastes of her exquisite chocolates. And to make your Valentine’s Day that much more special, we’ll be offering tastes of six of our fabulous sparkling wines from France and Italy, along with a special surprise that will be unveiled at the event.

We’re not going to sit back and try to tell you what the perfect gift is for Valentine’s Day. To the contrary, if you need advice from us, you’re probably in pretty bad shape to begin with. However, we will tell you that be it Valentine’s Day or Arbor Day or Groundhog Day, sumptuous sparkling wines and captivating chocolates are a match made in gastronomic heaven. And they make a pretty good Valentine’s Day gift…The Lineup:

Boeri Moscato d’Asti Ribota 2008, $17.99/btl – Piedmont, Italy – 100% Moscato – 5.5% abv – Clean and crisp, with lemony character. Medium-bodied and lightly sweet, with a simple finish. There’s lots of melon and lemon on the palate. Drink now. 250 cases imported.

San Giovanni Prosecco Brut, $18.99/btl – Veneto, Italy – 90% Prosecco, 10% Chardonnay – 11.5% abv – Sparklingly clean, pleasantly fruity fragrance of apple and slightly reminiscent of roses. Thanks to its soft and harmonious taste, it is suitable as an aperitif, with fish and cheese snacks, but fits perfectly with chocolate!

Hubert Clavelin et Fils Cremant du Jura Brut Comte Chardonnay Tete de Cuvee NV, $20.99/btl – Jura, France – 100% Chardonnay – 12% abv – For over two decades, Hubert Clavelin and his importer have been promoting non-vintage Cremant du Jura Brut-Comte Chardonnay Tete de Cuvee, and this latest batch (lot number LBRC05, in tiny print on the back label) – based on the 2005 vintage, and having spent 36 months sur lattes – is as fine as any I can recall, and a wine that deserves to be taken seriously at the dinner table. A hint of Jura-typical pungency figures amid aromas of buckwheat, lime zest, and apple cider. With fine mousse and impressive vinosity, this coats the palate with zesty piquancy and saline, mineral-meaty savor of scallops and bacon. Both fascination and versatility are guaranteed for the coming year. – WA 90 points

Domaine des Aubuisieres Vouvray Brut Methode Traditionnelle NV, $20.99/btl - Loire, France – 100% Chenin Blanc – 13% abv – The latest rendition of Aubuisieres Non-Vintage Vouvray Brut Methode Traditionelle smells of ripe melons and narcissus, with a whiff of snuffed candle wick. Pineapple and lime join the melons on a juicy, delicate palate, with hints of salt as well as pungent citrus zest and smoke adding to the invigoration conveyed by a fine stream of bubbles. I was surprised to find the finish entirely satisfying and fruit-filled despite there being a mere 2 grams of residual sugar. The latest installment of what is surely the consistently best value in its appellation. – WA 89 points

Domaine Albert Mann Cremant d’Alsace NV, $23.99/btl – Alsace, France – 60% Pinot Blanc, 40% Auxerrois – 12.5% – Based on the same varietal blend as their Pinot Blanc, the Barthelme’s non-vintage Cremant d’Alsace (the lot under review is L34) offers citrus zest and floral aromas, delicate mousse, and a salty, chalky, wet stone-inflected and subtly bitter finish. Enjoy this admirably clear, pure traditional sparkling wine over the next 6-9 months. Compared with it, most Alsace Cremant is sadly lacking in concentration or personality. – WA 88 points

Domaine de La Chapelle Cremant de Bourgogne 2007, $26.99/btl – Burgundy, France – 100% Chardonnay – 12.5% abv – New to the shop, a deliciously fruit forward sparkler!

It’s been an action-packed first 3 months for us, here at Weygandt Wines. We’ve poured beautiful Burgundies, astonishing Austrians, sensational Sancerres, and breathtaking Barolos to name a few. Alliteration aside, on Saturday, January 30, from 12 to 4 pm, we’ll pour some of the most misunderstood wines of the old world: Northern Rhones. The spotlight is on Georges Vernay, more specifically, his daughter Christine who, “has been running this estate for a number of years, and has not only built on the highly successful white wines of her father, but has also dramatically increased the quality of the reds.” – Robert Parker, The Wine Advocate

Northern Rhone Viognier pairs very well with rich cheeses, fish with sauces such as a beurre blanc, guinea fowl and other lighter poultry. The Syrahs are a natural match with duck, game birds, venison and richer meats.

All of the wines from Georges Vernay will be on sale for 25-50% off the regular retail price. For those of you who haven’t tasted Viognier and/or Syrah from the steep-sloped, shale and granite soils of this region, this is an excellent opportunity to try these elegant and complex wines. The Lineup:

Georges Vernay Viognier Vin de Pays des Collines Rhodaniennes Le Pied de Samson 2007, Sale $19.99/btl, Regularly $32.99/btl – Rhone, France – 100% Viognier – 12.8% abv – Fresh, tangy mix of peach, anise and mineral notes, that all stay bright and pure on the finish. Drink now. 1,080 cases made. – WS 88 points

Georges Vernay Condrieu Les Terrasses de L’Empire 2007, Sale $34.99/btl, Regularly $52.99/btl – Rhone, France – 100% Viognier – 14% abv – Really bright and superracy, with a tightly coiled core of orange blossom, honeysuckle, green fig, yellow apple and chamomile notes waiting to gush forth. Taut acidity holds this back for now, so cellar to let it round into form. Best from 2009 through 2012. 1,665 cases made. – WS 92 points

Georges Vernay Cote Rotie Blonde du Seigneur 2005, Sale $49.99/btl, Regularly $74.99/btl – Rhone, France – 100% Syrah – 12.5% abv – Bright and pure, with racy acidity carrying a strong floral note, along with hints of licorice, iron and cassis. Graphite edge really stretches out the finish. Best from 2009 through 2016. 415 cases made. – WS 92 points

The outstanding 2005 Cote Rotie Blonde de Seigneur exhibits the beautifully sexy, seductive notes from the Cote Blonde, with raspberry, kirsch, smoke, and flowers, followed by an elegantly wrought wine with supple tannins, beautiful black and red fruits, and a savory mouthfeel. It is rich, but not over the top. – WA 92 points

Georges Vernay Cote Rotie Blonde du Seigneur 2006, Sale $39.99/btl, Regularly $62.99/btl – Rhone, France – 100% Syrah – 12.5% abv – A juicy, ripe style, with lots of briar, red and black currant, sweet tapenade and aged tobacco notes, backed by a vibrant minerality. Long, alluring finish. Drink now through 2018. 665 cases made. – WS 91 points

Georges Vernay Cote Rotie Maison Rouge 2004, Sale $69.99/btl, Regularly $109.99 – Rhone, France – 100% Syrah – 12.5% abv – Shows a mix of sweet tea, black olive, currant, sanguine and mineral notes, with a long, supple finish. The fresh acidity lets the herb and mineral notes linger nicely. Drink now through 2015. 415 cases made. – WS 91 points

Georges Vernay Cote Rotie Maison Rouge 2005, Sale $79.99/btl, Regularly $119.99/btl – Rhone, France – 100% Syrah – 12.5% abv – Gorgeous aromas of Turkish coffee, warm fig bread and dark cocoa lead the way for a lushly layered palate of fig, boysenberry and black currant paste notes. Very alluring, with ample structure buried on the finish. Don’t overlook the reds at this Condrieu-based domaine; they’ve really improved in the last few vintages. Best from 2010 through 2025. 415 cases made. – WS 94 points

The 2005 Cote Rotie Maison Rouge is dark ruby in color but totally dominated by new oak. The wine has some serious weight to it and excellent freshness, but the wood is overwhelming at present, which surprised me. Judgment reserved. – WA 88 points

We just had an informal tasting with a local sommelier who was interested in going through our Austrian portfolio. A number of Gruner Veltliners, a Riesling, a couple of Sauvignon Blancs, a St. Laurent and a few Blaufrankisch are open and lonely at the shop right now. Net result for you? Taste whatever we have left. FX Pichler, Uwe Scheifer, Tement, Birgit Eichinger and Kurt Angerer will all be represented, so stop by the shop to taste some unique and truly excellent wines.

Thanks to Firefly Farms and everyone who made it into the shop over the weekend to taste the sublime combination of their creamy, elegant goat’s milk cheeses with our Loire Valley Sauvignon Blancs. This coming week is a bit light on the activities front, but as always, we’ll pour at least six different bottles at our bar. The Lineup:

L’Abbaye du Petit Quincy Bourgogne Tonnerre 2006, $19.99/btl – Burgundy, France – 100% Chardonnay – 12.5% abv

Domaine La Bastide Blanche Bandol Blanc 2008, $26.99/btl – Provence, France – 45% Clairette, 35% Ugni Blanc, 15% Bourboulenc, 5% Sauvignon Blanc – 13% abv – A fruity style, with focused flavors of peach, Golden Delicious apple and pear. Medium-bodied, with a zesty, spice-filled finish that features touches of cream. Drink now. 25 cases imported. – WS 88 points

Domaine de Fontenille Cotes du Luberon 2007, $14.99/btl – Rhone, France – 70% Grenache, 30% Syrah – 14% abv – Grippy for a Lubéron, with dark currant, roasted chestnut, maduro tobacco and roasted olive notes that pump through the muscular, slightly rugged finish. Drink now through 2010. 1,500 cases imported. – WS 89 points

This has been a consistent winner from importer Peter Weygandt since he first brought the Domaine du Fontenille to the attention of American wine consumers in the early nineties. A blend of 70% Grenache (50- to 60-year-old vines) and 30% Syrah, yields are kept modest, and the wine is aged in concrete tanks for over a year prior to being bottled without filtration. A super-aromatic example of the vintage, the 2007 exhibits loads of pepper, earth, black cherry, and dusty, loamy soil notes. The wine’s fruit, earthiness, and spiciness are all classic characteristics of Provence. Seriously endowed and medium to full-bodied with excellent purity and depth, this Cotes du Luberon should drink well for 2-3 years. – WA 88 points

Domaine de Poulvarel Costieres de Nimes Rouge 2007, $17.99/btl – Rhone, France – 50% Grenache, 50% Syrah – 14% abv – The two red wines include an equal part blend of Grenache and Syrah, the 2007 Costieres de Nimes, a richly textured effort that tastes more like a northern Rhone with the Syrah component dominating both the aromatics and flavors. Blackberry, licorice, and tar notes along with terrific fruit and medium to full body are found in this 2007. Its style is not terribly dissimilar from a St.-Joseph. Drink it over the next 4-5 years. – WA 89 points

Domaine de L’Ancienne Mercerie Faugeres les Petites Mains 2007, $27.99/btl - Languedoc, France – 30% Carignan, 30% Syrah, 25% Grenache, 15% Mourvedre – 15% abv – The 2007 Faugeres Les Petites Mains – a blend of Grenache, Carignan, Syrah, and slightly less Mourvedre – displays heady black fruit ripeness with overtones of smoke and fruit distillate. On the palate, plush, sweet, dense, yet exuberantly fresh black raspberry, boysenberry, and cassis are tinged with cardamom, clove, tonka bean, and rosemary. There is at most the slightest trace of heat and drying from its 15% alcohol, but this is delightful, rich red and an excellent value ready to enjoy today, yet probably worth following for at least 4-6 years. – WA 90 points

Yann Chave Crozes Hermitage 2007, $27.99/btl – Rhone, France – 100% Syrah – 13% abv – Bright and open, with tasty black cherry, currant and aged tobacco notes. Fresh finish. Drink now. 5,000 cases made. – WS 88 points

That’s right folks, Sancerre and goat cheese. Well, we actually expanded the wine selection a bit further out to include most of the Loire Valley, but there will be Sancerre and there will be goat cheese.

FireFly Farms formed when a small group of friends decided to join forces and enter the world of domestic goat cheese making. Since its inception in 2002, FireFly Farms artisan goat’s milk cheeses have received 28 individual national and international awards for excellence.

FireFly Farms is dedicated to the art of cheese making. FireFly Farms artisanal goat cheeses are made according to time-honored tradition – they are produced and ripened with handmade care. We take special care to ensure the purity, quality, and clean flavor of our milk. Our aged cheeses are ripened in a specially constructed aging room – we shun short cuts and artificial techniques aimed at increasing yield or shelf life at the expense of taste and quality.

At FireFly Farms, we believe in the interdependence of people with one another and with our environment, and we are committed to caring for the land and protecting biodiversity for today’s communities and future generations. – Firefly Farms

The lineup of wines is as follows:

Caves Plouzeau Chinon Bonneliere Les Devants Touraine  Sauvignon Blanc 2008, $15.99/btl – Loire, France – 100% Sauvignon Blanc – 12.5% abv – From chalky, flinty soils along the Cher, Marc Plouzeau has crafted a 2008 Touraine Sauvignon redolent of white peach and passion fruit; lean and quite dense; but finishing with refreshing juiciness, a saline tang, and hints of cherry pit and pistachio. Enjoy it over the next 6-9 months. – WA 87 points

Domaine Villalin Quincy Silex 2007, $19.99/btl – Loire, France – 100% Sauvignon Blanc – 12.5% abv – As proprietors Jean-Jacques Smith and his wife Maryline tell it, they are the only growers in their appellation to harvest entirely by hand, and the parcel in which their 2007 Quincy Cuvee Silex originates was already planted a dozen centuries ago. Certainly on the strength of this wine Domaine Villalin can be added to the short list of those that make Quincy worth of the attention of value-hunters and Sauvignon-hounds, and their label’s depiction of donkey and dudelsack (which Smith raises and plays, respectively) is unforgettable. Flowers and crushed stone in the nose mingle with gooseberry, white currant, and lime on a sappy, refreshing, and strikingly saline palate. Hints of toasted almond, caraway, and nettle add to the whiplash and salt wash of a finish in this impressive even though not terribly ripe Sauvignon, which will prove highly invigorating and versatile over the coming year. – WA 89 points

Domaine Serge Dagueneau et Filles Pouilly-Fume Les Pentes 2007, $26.99/btl – Loire, France – 100% Sauvignon Blanc – 12.5% abv – Soft, with floral and lemon curd notes and a gentle finish that verges on blowsy. Drink now. 500 cases imported.

Gerard et Pierre Morin Sancerre Vieilles Vignes 2007, $24.99/btl – Loire, France – 100% Sauvignon Blanc – 13% abv – Bracing, with flint and chive flower notes that stay taut through the slightly lean finish. Good length. Drink now. 400 cases imported. – WS 87 points

Pascal et Nicolas Reverdy Sancerre Les Coutes 2008, $22.99/btl – Loire, France – 100% Sauvignon Blanc – 13% abv – On the strength of their 2008 Sancerre Les Coutes Nicolas Reverdy’s widow Sophie and son Pascal are not letting family tragedy or challenging weather interfere with rendering exceptional examples of their appellation. Grapefruit, lime, mint, sage, wood smoke, and crushed stone in the nose lead to a palate of exuberant brightness, delicacy (at 12.6% – natural – alcohol), yet oily richness, and boasting a depth of chalk, salt, iodine, and shellfish-like nuances that simply has to be tasted to be believed. If you don’t want to be left with a mouthful of mineral flavors you can’t wash out, then stay clear of this wine (and leave it for the rest of us)! Like other recent Reverdy bottlings done for the United States, this was neither cold-stabilized nor filtered. You can count on its being worth following for at least the next 3-4 years. – WA 92 points

Domaine Edmond Vatan Sancerre Clos la Neore 2008, $65.99/btl – Loire, France – 100% Sauvignon Blanc – 13.5% abv – RMP [Robert M. Parker, Jr.] wanted to add that this summer he has drunk a full case of the 2005 Sancerre Clos la Neore, which he consistently rated between 92 and 94. The wine represents pure liquid minerals! – David Schildknecht, The Wine Advocate

And the lineup of Firefly Farms Goat’s Milk Cheeses:

Allegheny Chevre – Allegheny Chevre is our fresh, un-ripened goat’s milk cheese. It is a traditional chevre, crumbly in texture with a clean and tangy flavor. It’s a versatile ingredient in everyday cooking or finer cuisines. Crumbled on a salad, spread on sandwich, used in pasta dishes, or blended with spices for use as a spread, it is a perfect creamy addition to your meal.

Aging Notes
Allegheny Chevre is not aged. It generally takes us 3-4 days to make and package this fresh chevre and it is not uncommon to have it in the market within a week’s time. This is FireFly Farms most popular cheese, largely because there are so many uses for it in the kitchen. Like all cheese, it is best brought to room temperature before serving or using in a recipe.

Serving, Wrapping and Cooking
Allegheny Chevre is FireFly Farms most popular cheese, largely because there are so many uses for it in the kitchen. Like all cheese, it is best brought to room temperature before serving or using in a recipe.

We use the Allegheny Chevre as a healthier substitute for cream cheese, or used as a goat’s milk alternative for cheeses like ricotta. We’ve used it cooked in cheesecakes and lasagna, or crumbled on salads, pizzas, and crostini. Hint: If using in heated applications like pizza, add the crumbled chevre when the pizza is removed from the oven, not before. The heat of the oven will liquify this delicate fresh cheese; the heat of your cooling pizza will make it perfectly creamy. Plain or seasoned, it can spread on sandwiches, bagels or breads.

Once you have removed the originally wrapping of your Allegheny Chevre log, you can re-wrap in fresh plastic or put in a plastic containter or even a butter dish. Our chevres can be frozed beautifully. We have done freezer tests on whole and half logs of Allegheny Chevre for up to 4-weeks. Once removed from the freezer, allow the chevre to thaw for 24-hours in the refrigerator. Thawing faster on the counter is not recommended as it will cause water loss in the cheese and change its texture.

Ingredients
Pasteurized goat milk
Bacterials starter cultures (gluten-free)
Vegetable rennet
Salt

Bûche Noire – Bûche Noire is French for “black log.” It is a sophisticated, aged chevre log, first coated in vegetable ash and then aged for several weeks to develop a white-bloomed rind. The result is delicious. A rapidly maturing flavor and texture certain to please the most discerning of palates. The ashed rind is completely edible at any stage of the cheese’s ripening. In fact, the cheese’s fullest flavor is concentrated in its rind.

Awards and Honors
World Cheese Awards – 2006 Silver Medalist
American Dairy Goat Association Cheese Competition – 2006 Third Place
American Cheese Society, Cheese Judging – 2006 Third Place

Aging Notes
Weeks 1-3
Bûche Noire is considered a soft-ripened chevre. It develops its white-bloomed rind within a week’s time in our aging room. We wrap the young Bûche Noires at 2-3 weeks old to ensure that they have the maximum shelf life possible. At this stage, Bûche Noires are firm to the touch and have a clean, uncomplicated taste that is tangy like the Allehgheny Chevre. These young Bûche Noires can be used in cooking, but only with very gentle heat. We love putting a slice of Bûche Noire on the top of a bowl of warm soup.

Weeks 4-8
Because this cheese is a small-format, ripened, higher-moisture chevre, it moves directly from childhood into adulthood with very little “adolescence” to speak of. The ripening work of the white mold happens quickly, particularly at room temperature and the body of the cheese becomes creamy (to the point of finger-licking runny-ness). It’s flavor develops equally fast during this period, developing the earthy spiciness that identifies Bûche Noire. Not for the feint of heart, this delicate star is worth the extra care it requires and has developed a commited following among FireFly afficionados.

Serving, Wrapping and Cooking
Bûche Noire is a lovely addition to your meals. Its character is best suited for appetizer or cheese board, but it can be used mindfully in cooking. We love to spread a ripened Bûche Noire on a day-old crusty baguette and top it with a little sauteed mushroom tapendade. This, served with a nice Pinot Noir, is often dinner.

Once you have removed its original wrapping, DO NOT re-wrap in plastic wrap. This delicate star will suffocate and die a horrible soupy mess. Re-wrap in parchment or wax paper, or store a partially consumed Bûche Noire in a plastic container or on a dessert plate that’s covered in plastic wrap. Both methods allow for a bit of air around the cheese and continued breathing.

Ingredients
Pasteurized goat milk
Vegetable rennet
Bacterials starter cultures (gluten-free)
Vegetable ash
Salt
Enzymes

Merry Goat Round – Merry Goat Round is a surface-ripened goat’s milk round. It is our homage to brie or camembert and shares the same surface ripening mold as these traditional cheeses. It ripens from its rind inwards, growing progressively softer and creamier. The rind is completely edible at any stage of the cheese’s ripening. In fact, the cheese’s fullest flavor is concentrated in its rind.

Awards and Honors
World Cheese Awards – 2008 Silver Medalist, 2007 Bronze Medalist, 2004 Silver Medalist
American Dairy Goat Association Cheese Competition – 2007 Third Place, 2006 First Place
American Cheese Society, Cheese Judging – 2002 Third Place

Aging Notes
Weeks 1-3
Merry Goat Round is considered a soft-ripened cheese. It develops its white-bloomed rind within a week’s time in our aging room. We wrap the young Merry Goat Rounds at 2-3 weeks old to ensure that they have the maximum shelf life possible. At this stage, Merry Goat Round’s are firm to the touch and have a clean, uncomplicated taste that is slightly sharp. These young Merry Goat Rounds can be used in cooking, and will melt nicely.

Weeks 4-6
We think of this period as “adolescence” for Merry Goat Round. The rind is beginning to do its work, and when the cheese is cut you can see the ripening cheese body just below the rind. At room temperature, this ripened portion of the cheese body will be soft (and in the Spring quite creamy). The taste of the cheese is developing rapidly during this period; and the clean sharpness of the young cheese becomes increasingly complex and mushroomy.

Weeks 7-12
During this period, the “adult” Merry Goat Round reaches its fullest and most complex flavor profile. The rind has now ripened the cheese body ¼ to ½ inch toward its center. The cheese will feel soft to the touch, particularly at room temperature. Secondary molds and other “imperfections” may appear on the surface. The white-bloomed rind of youth begins to deepen to lovely orange hues. When unwrapped at this age, the captured ammonia (an exhalation by-product of the rind as it ripens the cheese body) may need to dissipate – allowing these older Merry Goat Rounds the time to “breathe” as they warm before serving is time well spent.

Serving, Wrapping and Cooking
Merry Goat Round is a lovely addition to your meals. It can be served alone as an appetizer, cut for a cheese board, served with crackers and a savory tapenade, or used in finer cuisines. Younger cheeses are definitely better for cooking, as they will withstand the heat of melting better; more mature cheeses shine as “solo-acts” on cheese boards, or served with complimentary stand out ingredients: a beautifully ripened pear, cured olives, sautéed mushrooms, or seasoned pecans.

Once you have removed its original wrapping, take care not to re-wrap too tightly in plastic wrap. This will suffocate the cheese. We store a partially consumed Merry Goat Round in a plastic container or a dessert plate covered in plastic wrap. Both methods allow for a bit of air around the cheese and continued breathing.

Ingredients
Pasteurized goat milk
Vegetable rennet
Bacterials starter cultures (gluten-free)
Salt
Enzymes

Mountain Top Bleu – Mountain Top Bleu is a surface-ripened blue and white mold pyramid. It ripens from its rind inwards, growing progressively softer and creamier. The rind is completely edible at any stage of the cheese’s ripening. In fact, the cheese’s fullest flavor is concentrated in its rind.

Awards and Honors
World Cheese Awards- 2008 Bronze Medalist, 2006 Silver Medalist, 2004 Bronze Medalist
American Dairy Goat Association Cheese Competition – 2009 Second Place, 2007 First Place, 2006 Third Place
American Cheese Society, Cheese Judging – 2006 Second Place, 2005 Third Place Finisher, 2004 Third Place, 2002 First Place
Saveur Magazine, 2005 Editor’s Pick – 50 Favorite American Cheeses

Aging Notes
Weeks 1-3
MountainTop Bleu is considered a soft-ripened cheese. We work hard to balance the white and blue molds to produce a cheese that has the luscious creaminess of a world-class soft-ripened cheeses plus the delicate piquancy of a blue mold cheese. This balancing act changes with the temperature of the seasons and the composition of the milk — as an artisan cheese, you’ll note that sometimes MountainTop’s are more blue; sometimes less. But they will always have that same subtle and distinctive taste.

It develops its white and blue-bloomed rind within a week’s time in our aging room. We wrap the young MountainTop Bleus at 2-3 weeks old to ensure that they have the maximum shelf life possible. At this stage, MountainTop Bleus are firm to the touch. The blue piquancy tends to be more pronouced at this stage — before the white mold has a chance to ripen and soften the cheese body. These young MountainTop Bleus can be used in cooking, and will melt nicely.

Weeks 4-6
We think of this period as “adolescence” for MountainTop Bleus. The rind beginning to do its work and when the cheese is cut, you can see the ripening cheese body just below the rind. At room temperature, this ripened portion of the cheese body will be soft (and in the Spring quite creamy). The taste of the cheese is developing rapidly during this period; and the clean sharpness of the young cheese becomes increasingly complex as white and bluie molds do their work in tandem.

Weeks 7-12
During this period, the “adult” MountainTop Bleu reaches its fullest and most complex flavor profile. The rind has now ripened the cheese body ½ inch or more toward its center. The cheese will feel soft to the touch, particularly at room temperature. Secondary molds and other “imperfections” may appear on the surface. The white and blue-bloomed rind of youth begins to deepen to lovely darker hues. When unwrapped at this age, the captured ammonia (an exhalation by-product of the rind as it ripens the cheese body) may need to dissipate – allowing these older MountainTop Bleus the time to “breathe” as they warm before serving is time well spent.

Serving, Wrapping and Cooking
MountainTop Bleu is a lovely addition to your meals. It can be served alone as an appetizer, cut for a cheese board, served with crackers and a savory tapenade, or used in finer cuisines. Younger cheeses are definitely better for cooking, as they will withstand the heat of melting better; more mature cheeses shine as “solo-acts” on cheese boards, or served with complimentary stand out ingredients: stewed figs, Spanish or Portugese membrillo, or cured olives.

Once you have removed its original wrapping, take care not to re-wrap too tightly in plastic wrap. This will suffocate the cheese. We store a partially consumed MountainTop Bleu in a plastic container or a dessert plate covered in plastic wrap. Both methods allow for a bit of air around the cheese and continued breathing.

Ingredients
Pasteurized goat milk
Vegetable rennet
Bacterials starter cultures (gluten-free)
Salt
Enzymes